F-Body Europe

I would lick my wounds. Order more mods and start talking smack all over again. This stuff is great!!!

I know you would...

Dave the guy I talked to at mclure racing advised me the same info john told you on the tuning and dyno. He said he would do for an additional $1200.00 and that's not a bad price. The only problem is I don't know anyone who has ever bought from this company. The guy seemed like he knew what he was talking about and he does 396. The 383 I'm probably going to buy from him will cost around $6500.00 with dyno and tuning which is a fair $. Let me know if you want to change your mind and I'll give you his number so you can talk with him yourself.

John how much hp do you think I'll loose if I have him drop the commpression down to 8 to 1 for a 16lb supercharger. I know I want to break it in atleast 5k before bolting that on but I don't want to have a snail in the waiting period.

Ryan going to 8 to 1 probably around 20-50 hp. It just depends really but you make it up and more w/ the SC. Of course. 1200 for dyno-tune? Damn that's decent considering just to dyno tune is like 400-600 back home.

The Turbo craze is coming!!! SC are on the way out Turbos the in thing and getting cheaper.

That's exactly what I thought 1200.00 dyno/tune good price since the tunning will cost a fortune. It also makes it easier for when I get it I don't have to mess with all of that it'll be a plug and play operation. And the cost of the tunning he'll due is 750.00 and it'll save me a lot of headache.

Bruce the turbo is a great system but I just havn't known anyone to do it yet and work out the bugs. And I kinda like the idea of horsepower at just about any RPM. If someone puts a turbo on first and is succesfull I may go that route. So John when are you going to put one on????????

what raises or lowers your compression besides gaskets??? Mike

I'm glad there's someone else on here who doesn't know what people are talking about half the time!!!

Mike your heads will change CR.

Thanks again! So, a high compression car runs higher rpms opposed to lower? What's the deal...All I know is you need to run low comp. to run a SC. -Mike-

High compression can be obtained by:

Milling the heads (cutting the bottoms to make the combustion chamber shorter)

Thinner Head Gaskets

High Dome Pistons.

High compression will give you more Naturally Aspirated Horsepower.

Low Compression Can be obtained by:

Adding Thicker Head Gaskets

Flat top or dimpled pistons..

Low Compression will give you less Naturally Aspirated Horsepower, but will allow you to run a higher PSI with forced induction.

The LS1/LT1 engines come from factory with high compression therefore creating a large amount of factory Horse Power. This is also why you cannot run a high PSI forced induction setup on a stock bottom end.

When building the engine i.e. stroker, you need to be sure that you decide which way you want to go.

Low Compression = Forced Induction
High Compression = Naturally Aspirated
Medium Compression = Mild Forced Induction w/good Naturally Aspirated Horsepower.

I hope this helps you guys understand a little better...

You are one smart cookie George!! My compression will probably be in the range where I can put a small SC on it later.

George summed it up really good. A streetable N/A engine should not go to far above 11:1 CR because of gas octane/ignition detonation could kill a good engine. S/C applies load to the engine to run meaning taking power to make power they have streetable setups out there but are pretty high maintanace requiring bearing rebuilds every 10-15,000 miles you can make more power with a S/C but more maintance will be involved. I think a good street strip N/A engine is the way to go unless all you want to do is race. lower maint, dependable and cheaper.