F-Body Europe

Hi,

my TRANS AM 1996 lost now Oil. I was now on a GM Service Station, and they have found the problem of losing Oil.

It comes out from the "Sucking bridge". I need a new Seal (kost 55,- EURO, I can get them). The Service on GM is round about 500,- €!!!

Thats to mutch! The most says, not more than 1-2 hours and ready! Not more than 120,- EURO only for work whitout the Seal!

Now I search for a expert who can change for me the Seal. I pay good, but not 500,- EURO! I will give you Immediately e.g. 200,- €!

Write my a email, if you would help me, and get a good money for good work!

I hope someone want help me!?

Danix

Mail to: danix.home@gmx.de

What is a sucking bridge?

Sorry. I have translate it with http://www.altavista.de

It is the "Sucking spider" (I hope it is the right word). The man on GM has sayd, if you open the "Sucking bridge"/"Sucking spider" you can see direct the camshaft. It is beetween Cylinder Head and camshaft (I think so, but I´m not a engine expert!!!). It is only the Seal to change.

I know only the German Word. I need a new Seal at the (German:) "Ansaugbrücke / Ansaugspinne".

Can you thereby anything with this word?

Danix

Sorry about my us/english...

I think this is the infamous leak from the rear of the LT1 intake manifold (ie sucking bridge) so it's a removal of the intake jobby.

It's a bridge and the intake runners have 8 legs like a spider. Oh I'm too good for this place.

@LuS1fer: I think you have the right thing.

It is on the top of the engine, so are oil at the lower surface of the engine on the front on the rear and runs also to the cat. Because it come out of the top of the engine (sucking bridge).

What is the right name?

@Roy: Can you do this? Or do you know a man or service point?

It is the "intake manifold".

The leak at the rear is a common fault and happens to all LT1's sooner or later.

As I understand it, it's a fiddly job involving removal of fuel rails and the manifold and I think there's a pipe at the back. Hopefully someone can help you but 500 Euros might be a fair cost for the time involved?

It is an intake manifold. GM knows about the problem of it leaking at the ends. There is not much metal there for it to seal. One fix that I read about is to clean it real good, (of course) and to "dimple" it. I don't like the idea of putting a hundred tiny dents on the top of my block, but if nothing else works... You should be able to find someone who can do it for much less than what you were quoted. However, these cars are not as easy to work on compared to the 1st and 2nd gen. Since you have to take part of the engine apart, how about a new GM Hot cam?

@SSZ28: Do you have a picture of the Hot Cam? Is it verry expensive? What do this?

First I want only drive my car. Is it a so raly heawy work to change the Seal? The top of engine is free. Do you can put anything away whitout deinstall other Parts!?

So I ask you fbodyeurope members, if you know a cheaper or better way (like SSZ28 with the Hot cam. Whatever it is?)

Danix

You can buy an "Oil Stick" which you rub into the leaking joint to seal it. However, this is impossible on the LT1 as you can't get to the back of the engine to do it!

My advice is to try and find someone to do it cheaper BUT if you can't find anyone, just pay the 500 Euros as at least the work will be guaranteed if it leaks again. It should then last another 7 years.

hot cam = hot camshaft = deutsch: scharfe/schärfere Nockenwelle mit mehr Ventilüberschneidung, längere Steuerzeiten etc....

@LuS1fer: The Oil Stick is only the first aid seal for the leaking point?

I know now what you mean. It is the point of the backside top of the engine, and this is under/behind the hood! Oh no! GM Service is one of the expensiest service stations.

I hope I will find a Service Ponit who do it for (hope under) the half of 500,- €!?

@ChrisV6: Was bringt mir eine schärfere Nockenwelle? Und was kostet der Einbau extra? OK, an der Nockenwelle sind die schon dran, aber kommen da trotzdem noch kosten für evtl. Einstellungen, weitere benötigten Parts? Wie lange würde es dauern, die Nockenwelle zu tauschen, wenn die sowieso schon "fast" an der Nockenwelle sind?

Danke / Thanks for Help!

Danix

I only know about the V6, but don´t you have to remove the radiator etc and some parts of the front (or remove the engine) to change the cam on a LT1?

Short description of a hot cam in german:
[Eine schärfer Nocke bringt mehr Leistung, meistens (etwas) zu Kosten des runden Leerlaufs, bei extremen Nockenwellen wummern die Motoren im Stand regelrecht. Durch mehr Ventilüberschneidung (Einlass- und Auslassventil sind zu beginn des 1.Taktes gleichzeitig offen) bekommt man eine bessere Zylinderfüllung = Leistung.
Als Deutscher kommt für Dich aber nur eine mildere Nocke in Frage, weil Du sonst aller Wahrscheinlichkeit nicht mehr durch die AU kommst
Und allzu unrunden Leerlauf kann man vor der Polizei auch nicht als falsch eingestellten Leerlauf abtun Aber ein bischen was geht immer!!]

You would need the camshaft and new lifters (dt. = Hydrostössel),
but there are dozens of cams for the V8, just ask the V8 guys here, which one is the best for you! (He still has to pass emission testing and the idle shouldn´t be to loopy because of the cops.)
price ca. 250$

@ChrisV6: Hmmm, Radiator remove for the changing?

I see... to mutch work, to mutch money. I ask later a good friend what he think.

Thank you for the good inforamtion about the emissions! Thats verry important! Shaking car... hmmm... lets see...

Are you German or US Lokated?

Danix

No, i´m not sure about the radiator thingie, thats why i´m asking! I only know something about the engines with 2 cylinders less...

I´m german, located in Bavaria/Coburg resp. Erlangen.

http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?action ... 3&pid=1900
This kit should add about 30 - 40 ps
I know, not cheap. GM dealer should be able to order it for you. If you do a search with the words, LT4 hot cam, you will see many pages come up. Many people have installed this cam, just research to ensure that you will be pleased with whatever decision you make. I agree with LuS1fer about paying the 500, at least the work is guaranteed.

Danix If my days here in Germany were longer , I would do it for free, well almost for free. I have a small drinking habit.

Oh Roy, I will buy you some six packs for the work!

Hmmm, do anybody have time to do this work for me? Or know a car station who will do this?

Danix

I have done this on my car. Its fairly easy. Took me about 3 hrs. Here's the install guide I used. I also used Fel-pro gaskets. I havent had nary a leak since I have done this.

Make sure you let it sit for 24hrs before you start the car!

Here is a good write-up.
http://www.projecttransam.com/projects2.asp

Hey buddy, just like I emailed you. This is straight forward, and simple. My engine is apart if you need some pics. You dont have to disconnect anything except maybe the cruise and throttle cables. Just unbutton the intake and spread some RTV on the front and rear of the intake, with maybe a smidge on where the heads meet the block. The gaskets will be fine and will more than likely stay on the heads because of these little plastic thingies that fit into the head.

Pop the bellows off the Tbody, unbolt the intakek, get your 'pry'on to break loose the intake, and take action. Of course the alternator needs to come off along with the obvious, but its really easy.

Peace
Rob

Thank you Rob, but I´m not a good mechanical! I´m to angry to damage somephing or to do somphing wrong.
If I do somephing wrong, I think I can damage the whole engine!?

So I´m looking for a expert (like you), who can do the work for me. I will help and see the work, so I can learn somephing about my engine.

Daniel