F-Body Europe

I got off work on saturday morning and started working on the car to try and get it running for the sembach event. I replaced all of the obvious things that would cause the oil pressure loss and the bad spark. I started it up and the oil preassure went back to where it is normaly. The spark seemed alot better since I changed out the plugs they were pretty bad looking. I dropped the car and took it for a test drive and the big oh shi* happened. I got on it not to much but enough the tires broke loose (wet pavement) I made it about 1/4 of a mile down the road and lost all oil preassure. And then the car kept on wanting to die out and It started to make a bang sound back by the 8th cylinder or somewhere towards the rear of the engine. I could barley get it back into the garage and the car died and wouldn't stay running without pressing the gas pedal down a little. It sounds like crap when the car is at 1000 rpm it's quit when you bring the rpm's up it makes an un even loud knock sound. Any advice from anyone who's had these kinda sounds would be appreciated.

MY Verdict is when I got in that race the other day the oil pump went out. I couldn't pull over and I'm pretty sure that it destroyed my engine. All of this because of an oil pump a $60.00 part (FUC#)son of a bitc%. I pretty sure it's gonna be a while before I get the car back up and running probably next year sometime. After all the work I put into this thing I'm so frustrated I can't even walk into the garage without looking at my car and that nice big hammer on the wall. I was talking with my wife and i'm probably going to put alot of parts up for sale on the board in a week or sneak preview,-Chrome valve covers, Comp Cam, Insky dual coil valve springs, my intake thats painted (most of you have seen it, it looks sharp), the valve cover breather caps chrome, luk clutch 600 miles and a whole bunch of other stuff. I'm going to build my car the way I want it the first time so I don't have to mess with it for a while. I need to know where the best places are to buy the following parts. I know where to get the stuff but other people always know cheaper places.

383 stroker kit all forged
LT4 stage 3 ported heads AFR has them but to many bad stories
LT4 intake
all gaskets and bearings
the rest of the misc stuff I know where to get.

That's the basics for now I want to build this for the best price I can. For those of you that have kids that are in the robbing CDC $800.00 frigen dollars a month know why. Sorry that this is so long but I pretty much piss@# off Thanks for everyone's help. I really wish I could have made it to sembach yesterday sounds like it was a lot of fun. I probably should have named this topic VENTING ALOT OF FRUSTRATION.

Sorry to hear about it. We will have three races next year hopefully that motivates you. Good luck!!!

There is a group purchse for stroker kits on cz28.com. Or you can always try e0bay. You could get a LT1+tranny there for around $900.

that needs to be motivated it's the wallet I'm having problems with. I should be good for next season if I don't run into anymore problems. I know it's going to be really quick once I'm done. I figure there is no since in building a 350 when I can spend a little more and do it right.

F-body is doing a forged 396 under 3 gs complete short block? why you selling your new clutch? Maybe I could sell you my LS1/w 6 speed? now that would be a 1 and only over here.

the clutch because it definatly won't be able to handle the power that the car is going to put out. I would fry it so quick it wouldn't be funny so I figure I might as well just replace it while it's torn apart. You said F-body is selling a 396 for under 3000.00 who is f-body ?????

It is Dave fbody 97 and he has all the poop. Not selling but ordering the 396.

Hey Ryan, I got the poop! I am doing the same GP as Jeff is talking about on cz28.com. You can go 2 ways. 1 you can just order the rotating assymbly and build it yourself ($1975, ALL FORGED, 383 or 396). Or 2, you can have Nu-Tek Motorsports build you a custom short block, complete with 4 bolt main conversion (less than $3600) which is the route I'm going with. This price could go lower if there are more people interested. If you want to see the info for yourself, go to http://www.nutekmotorsports.com and then to the lt1/ls1 section. There is the cz28 GP link there.

All I can say is the Hawk will be 1+ second quicker next year= 6-9 car lengths on the 1/4. I will up the prize money to $200.00 but the new rule is 10 bones a run. I would be willing to double it to 400 with 20 bones per run. Let me know if anybody is game. LOL

Lol Bruce, I just might take you up on that!!

I think we should raise the stakes a little how about 3000.00 that way I can buy a supercharger to go with the 383. lol.

I'll take it next year. I'm always glad to take peoples $$$!!!

I'll be up and running next year!!!!!!!!!I want to do it the right way which means If I don't have it I'm not using my old stuff. I want everything new within reason. I'm at my wits end with a car that wants to break somthing new everytime I drive it.

At least you guys are not like cobra man who was afraid to run his gas sniffing blown snake. Or Mr red Z who sat on the sidelines with a for sale sign in the window WTF. If it turns the numbers it could have been a deal however we will never know? I woulda lined up against either one and took my a%% whooping if it was met to be.

If you got it you should race it. I know I've taken a few A$$ woopens since i've had my car. It's all about fun!!!!

(Some others should use also) If car is running and event of the year is coming up, do not drive car, walk to work. It will be better to break on the line..... I hope everyone is there for the next one. This is all that I will miss about Germany, and the autobahn...

That was the best self note I've ever heard. True True!!!