F-Body Europe

I just want to share some of the mods I did to get to the 11s. I think it was money well spent and put in the right place. If you are a die hard drag racer with an LS1 then you should read this.

First time with car.
June Bitburg: 13.56@102
Mods: Unhooked Sway bar and put on a set of severly worn drag radials. Tire Pressure 16 PSI.

July/August Bitburg: 13.09@104
Mods: Unhooked Sway bar, Comp Cam 224/228 dur .581 int / .588 exhaust lift with a 114 LSA. Stock computer tune, Better BFG Drag radials at 16 psi tire pressure, 160 thermostat, SLP Loudmouth Quadtip exhaust, TCI SSF 3500 stall converter, trans cooler.

September Bitburg: 12.42@109
Mods: Same as above, Texas Speed and Performance Computer Tune (Removed Torque Management, Rev Limiter set at 6800rpm, Shifts points set at 6400rpm, Line pressure at 100%, remapped air / fuel tables, eliminated rear 02 sensors and smog pump, and set cooling fans lower), SLP air lid and smooth bellows, Throttle body bypass.

October Bitburg: 11.90@115
Mods: Same as above, Pacesetter Long Tube headers with no smog, 3" off road y-pipe, power steering belt bypass (56" on stock crank pulley), and front skinnies, Tire pressure 15 psi.

As for driving an automatic at the strip. With the big torque converter and drag radials my best 60' was 1.72. I had to launch at 1400 rpm. Anything else would create tire spin and cost me a tenth in the quarter. You have to get a feel for this because all cars are different. Know where your rev limiter is set. Launch the car in 1st gear. Move the selector lever to 2nd 300-400 rpms before the rev limiter. Once in 2nd move the selector lever to OVERDRIVE 300-400 rpms before the rev limiter. NOTE: If you chose to shift from 2nd to Drive then you WILL hit the rev limiter no matter what and the tranny won't shift into 3rd until the selector is moved into overdrive.

Last thing is to make sure you read your 60' times. This is where you will make your money. You may have to leave on idle or higher than my launch rpm. I was launching at 1800 rpm with the new converter for 3 months. I was stuck in the low 12s all weekend. On my last pass I decided to launch a little lower and BOOM- 11.90. The car droped .13 off my previous best. Don't just think it is the track that doesn't have the grip. It is usually your right foot. Hope this helps out.

Don

congrats I told you LS1 would be the ticket and I miss that cam.

Thanks for the info Don

nice info, tnx a lot!

That's badass dude- 13 sec time slips to 11 sec time slips in 4 months.... I wish I could have raced my car. Maybe next year, in Texas. I need to get this clutch bug resolved, and find a nice, used rear that will withstand at least 500 NA hapees. That's my goal- I will be quite pleased when, not if, I achieve that.

RAM VDS 910 disc with the 402 PP is the best thing out there. I had mine for 3 years still in but currently slipping guessing about 200 passes with 6500 dumps on nitrous.

Not anymore. If I replace mine it will either be with the new twin disk Exedy or I'll just get the twin disk Mcleod! I will not buy another single disk clutch- that's for sure! I've already paid for more than one with the two that I've bought.

this one is better than the twin disc Mcleod and the SPEC stage 6. I wished you got it before tried to provide info but I guess I was to late.

I know it's good, but I don't think it's that good. Heck, my Cartek clutch lasted 2 and a half years. That was a good clutch too. I definitely won't be buying another SPEC, and I think stage 5 is the highest.

spec stage VI is a twin disc kevlar. Do what you want it is your money. I did not pick the RAM VDS I asked what is the best clutch out there I am getting ready to install the RAM VDS Race version with a studded billet flywheel.

Seek advice from a transmission or drivetrain shop that specializes in LS1's. These are the guys that actually know what works and what doesn't. It sounds like that is what Bruce did, and I'll bet his clutch works out well for him.

I bet it does too, but I trusted the judgment of the people at LS1Tech.com so shoot me okay.

Screw those amateurs. I know that D&D sells the T56, but I think they deal with mostly Ford autos. Maybe try http://www.g-forcetransmissions.com/ , they sell modified T56's, and they were the ones that told me Spec Clutches were only good for breaking everything behind the clutch. They reccomended using a McCleod on my car. Guys were real friendly, and deal with high HP cars. Might be worth a shot.

Thanks Nick. I guess I just believed that they knew what they were talking about, since they use them in their own cars, and with way more HP than I have....