F-Body Europe

Well after all of the fun at Bitburg last weekend I have decided that I need to do something about my lack of traction. My best 60ft time was 2.302 and I averaged in the high 2.3s / low 2.4s. I feel this really hurt my times. I raced a fox body vert mustang with 3.73 gears/headers/exhaust several times and he was cutting 1.9s. I beat him 4 out of 5 runs, but I think I should have done better (he was always right there). My best ET was 9.344, that's like mid 14s in the quarter (I think). That just plan sucks. Short of running DRs or slicks, I am open for suggestions. I will be spending about $500 (B-day is coming up soon)this weekend on my suspension. Here is what I have come up with so far:

List 1
BMR LCA = $110
BMR LCA relocation brackets bolt-on = $110
BMR adjustable Pan hard rod = $110
Eibach Pro-Kit springs = $200
Total= $530 + shipping - OUCH!!
Will this help out a lot on my launch?

I am thinking of ditching the pan hard rod and springs for right now and add these items instead:

List 2
SLP 160* thermostat = $20
SLP manual fan switch = $70
Throttle body Airfoil = $50
BMR tubular subframe connectors = $140
BMR LCAs = $110
BMR LCA relocation brackets = $110
Total = $500 + shipping

Which one do you think will help the most? Or mix and match and let me know what you come up with. Remember $500 is the MAX and the wife is already p*ssed about that!
Here is the info on my car;
97 SS / 6 Speed
PRO 5.0 shifter (1" cut off top)
Starr Spec stage 3 Kevlar clutch
Holley Power Shot air filter
March Underdrive pulley set
LT4 Knock Module
Flow Master cat back
Basically stock!
So what's my next step? I need to be able to get out of the hole quicker instead of chasing everyone down. I will be going back to the states in August (find out were next week) and I want to be able to represent the club when I get there. Thanxs

Torque arm and SFC's will get you out the hole. I have a chassis engineering solid torque arm with a DS safety loop $ 260.

Do you really think I need a torque arm already? I thought they were for highly modded cars. I mean I plan on doing the whole suspension thing as money allows, I just want to do it as smart as possible. If you think that is the right thing then I will drop the big $$$ and get that.

Krazy
I don't know much about changing engine parts yet, I am waiting for my warranty to run out then I'll play by uping the HP. But to up the HP you should get the suspension and handling right first (and braking). Bare in mind I am learning but this is my bit of advice.

I have read that the first change to the suspension should be the SHOCKS. Sam Strano seems is very good in this area. The stock shocks are very light and cause the f-body to bobble on the road. If you change the springs you may have to revalve the shocks. I have chosen Bilsteins which the front are going to be revalved for Eibach Pro Kits.

Note the Eibach springs are primarily designed to give lowering effects with added stiffnes second. I am installing Pro Kits to lower the car just over an inch and to help with the stiffer ride on the UK roads.

If you put lowering springs on you will need the adjustable PHR. This will bring the axle and body into line.

I have read the second change to suspension should be the addition of SFC's. This will stiffen the F-body and balance the car when cornering. I have bought BMR tubular. They seem heavy duty and I know the installer is very good at welding.

I have bought the BMR box LCA's and brackets. They are HUGE and should keep the axle and rubber on the tarmac. I have gone for poly/rubber bushing combination to lower the noise as I use this car everyday on the road.

I will be doing the torque arm in the future. I believe this helps with the body stiffness and does not rob power from the back axle. My wife Lynne has also being check the prices I have paid and will do the torque arm next year. I have to buy Lynne a lounge carpet as a compromise this year!!!!!

The other main recommendation that I am going to offer is to chnage the sway bars with poly bushings and end links. I am changing these to reduce body roll when out on the road in the UK. I chose BMR because the diameters of the front and rear (32/21mm) seem to suit the car best (from what I have read). I also like the fact the BMR are solid chrome moly. And boy they weigh a lot. Its a good job I can up the HP to compensate.

Other companies you should consider are G2 and Hotchkis (IMO), I went with BMR after reading lots and they offer good value for money and I'm only using my car on the road. The make of parts that people choose are down to personal choice and budget, but it is clear, to help the F-body the things I have mentioned, everyone seems to change them.

I also recommend you give Stealth Performance a call. Mike at Stealth was fantastic - quick, reliable and gave best prices. Bearing in mind my shipping was over $450 I needed the best prices. If you mention my name in the UK he may give you a good price too!!!

When others read this, if I have got anything wrong, please let me know because as I said I'm only learning.

Cheers
Jagsy

I like the torque arm idea also, you could go G-trac but that would put you right at your $500 limit, or a Spohn. Subframes are a must. The biggest thing that can whittle your time is just launching. You should be able to shave .2 or more off your '60 just by repetition. That Pro-kit is only gonna hurt your launcing also, you could consider the drag springs, only takes two bolts to swap out springs, so you could do that the day before race day.

Okay, sounds like the torque arm and subframe connectors are the winners so far. But to avoid the welding option over here I may go with the torque arm, LCAs, 160* thermostat, and red line water wetter for now. Then get the subframe connectors when I get to the states. That will safely put me under $500 and I can install it all myself. Thanx for the suggestions. Peace

P.S. Yes I do need to work on my launches, but I don't like to admit that my shatty 60ft times are my fault

The torque arm helps weight transfer a free mod is remove the front stabalizer after the auto-x events. Which I did I have it down to 15 minutes.

I new about the removing the front sway bar, but 15 minute.........D*mn that's fast. What do you just disconnect the swaybar from the A-arms?

Well it's a done deal. I ordered;
BMR torque arm
BMR tubular LCAs with Poly bushings
Hypertech 160* thermostat
Red line water wetter
SLP manual fan control switch.

That's everything that will be done to my car before I ship it in July. Wish I could have it to run in Bitburg in July, but we decided to ship my car first and keep the wifes here until we leave. Oh well I should get plenty of track time in the states. Thanks again for all of the help and suggestions. I wasn't even considering the torque arm, I was going to save that as one of the last things I got for my suspension. I ordered everything through Thunder Racing over the web and asked them to throw in a free t-shirt. I will have to wait and see if they were nice to me or not. Peace :p

There are 6 bolts total 4 to the frame two per side and the end links. You want lift (weight transfer back) to plant the tires. I adjusted my torque arm sat and picked up 3/10 60ft. BTW Best 60ft was 1.88

Now that's what I'm talking about....1.88!!! But then you were running slick too. You do have one fast car that is for sure. One day you may have to watch out for me, but I haven't decided on how radical I want to go with this car. Peace

Krazy. Ditch the airfoil.

Want to hook? LCA brackets, LCA, panhard, springs, Subframes and shocks. Not of fan of BMR's subs they hang too low IMO. TA when you can afford it and call it a day.

They were not slicks they were street ET which translates to a barely street legal tire but they are DOT approved. If I could have warmed them I coulda got them really sticky.

They sure looked like slicks when you were done with them The only tread line I saw was on the very outer edge. Anyway it was a lot of fun when they finally got it going.

Yes they were worn and I had a blast also.

Well got everything in the mail today but the torque arm. They said it is on back order and should be shipped in about two weeks Oh well, I have the other stuff to put on. THunder Racing even threw in the free T-shirt I asked for. SWEET!!!. Now I just have to wait till I have some time to do the work. I'm guessing in two weeks I will have the time. Peace