F-Body Europe

I want to begin some mods on my 99 V6, first to improve handling
I was thinking of front and rear sway bars swap with V8 bars. I know they're bigger and stiffer than stock V6 ones.
What do you think about it ? I'll have to get the V8 rubber mounts because of the bigger diameter. Can I keep the stock bolts at the ends of my bars or do I need all the stuff from a V8 ?
Are all V8 bars from 93 to 2002 compatible with the V6?

Thanks for helping me.

V8 sway bars would be a (minor) improvement ... but remember, if you get stock Z28 swaybars, only the front one will be thicker - the rear is the same AFAIK (12mm hollow). IMHO, do yourself a favor and get a decent set - minimum might be the 1LE set, or go with the one from BMR or similar ... I have them (34 solid in front, 20something in the rear, solid too), and it was a good step. Hopefully, Roy's KBDD SFC will fit my 'maro, which should make the car a lot more stable ... only need to pick up a STB some time then ...

IMO

Shocks (and springs) 1st
SFC's 2nd
APHR and sway bars 3rs (you'll need the APHR if you use lowering springs)
STB 4th.

I used BMR with poly bushings - big difference. My mate who took it out after said it handled more like a Vette.

I just have the torque to do now. The book I have read says this should be done first to hold that rear axle in place to help all round handling.

I'm not sure cos I'm still learning.

Thanx for the help guys.

Jagsy, I have read something yesterday that confirms what you say : shocks & springs 1st.

The problem is, I'm on a budget for the mods. I've bought my car new and spent much money for it, even if it's a bang for the buck
I think I'll wait a little and get Eibach Pro kit spring set first.

By the way, it's maybe a dumb question, but can I change the springs myself or are they preloaded (Not sure of the word?).
Sorry, I'm not used to RWD cars.

I've followed my mate's stock 3.4 V6 and he pushed it hard and it seemed to handle Ok. Bear in mind you should identify the deficiencies in your stock car and address them rather than simply spending out on stuff that may only have a tangible benefit in extremis.

My first mod would be rear control arms. Had them on my '87 where it was the onnly mod and it made a huge difference. It was the last thing i did on my '98 and it still made a big difference. The Panhard bar is less important as it centralises the axle.

I just did a long post and it wouldn't accept and wiped it off (grrrrrr) so I'll post this now and continue.

SHOCKS
Jagsy swears by Sam Strano revalving but i bought a cheaper Bilstein kit from http://www.performancecenter.com for under 600 dollars and have no complaints.

SWAY BARS
If you can find a V8 front bar lying round, then use it but uprating to a 32mm BMR bar has great advantages, not least as it comes with poly bushings and end-links. You WILL end up cutting off your existing end-links and the rubbers will be u/s so you'll need new ones anyway. the rear bar is the same but again you can uprate through BMR although it can be a little harsh inducing oversteer (the control arms tended to cure that too).

SUBFRAME CONNECTORS
I use BMR but I would be hard pressed to tell the difference if blindfolded and in everyday use. It makes the car stiffer though and has long term benefits so far as flexing is concerned.

SPRINGS/SHOCKS
The rear springs and shocks are childs play. You just drop the axle and slot them in. the fronts are harder.
The pre-loaded front strut comes out easily as a complete unit. You then have to strip it using spring compressors which is easy enough if you use tape on the springs to stop them slipping and make sure the coils don't jam on them when decompressing. You just strip the old parts off and put them on the new shock, fit the new spring, fit the top plate and nut and decompress the clamps ensuring the mounting bolts are lined up properly. You then wonder why you can't buy pre-assembled units, it would be so much easier.

Overall, I would say that you should be sure you really need new springs and shocks for the use you're going to put the car to. You will get a lowered car so you may want the weld-on BMR brackets to keep the rear alignment and traction in shape. Suspension kits make the car sit lower and often that's good enough reason to do it.

You need to get the car up high using ramps and jack stands for the suspension work.

My car used to fishtail as you flipped off roundabouts at speed as the rear end unloaded. Now it doesn't do that. It handles better and is stiffer throughout but I still say the rear control arms made the most difference and I'd start there, add a front bar and see how it goes from there.

I do agree with what Lus1fer has said.

The only difference that I did was the Eibach pro kit - Lus1fer used the BTS.

I think the Eibach are a little lower but I can't comment on handling as I haven't had a ride with Lus1fer (yet).

If you change springs I would save a little more and do shocks DEFINATELY. The stock deCarbon do not have very good valving and do not dampen. After I did the SFC's (before the other mods) the car used to bob like a boat instead of flexing.

If you put lowering springs on check the new shocks will cope with the lower stance. I went with Strano's recommendation and I am very happy (revalved Bilsteins at the front).

So I recommend saving that extra cash and do it properly.

I'm learning many things with your answers but you're right I should have been more precise about my expectations and the way I use my car.

The 2 things I don't like and want to get rid of :
_ nose diving when braking hard
_ rear "side shiftings" in corners when driving on bumpy roads, even at low speed (70 km/h). I got scared many times because of that.

I don't race with my car; it is a daily driver, so I want it to stay driveable; I don't want it to be hard as if it has no springs and suspension (thank you for my back )

the BMR sway bars I put in solved both problems on my 'vert ... next up is KB DD SFCs ... seems like the one Roy had will fit, waiting for KB to confirm it based on the serial# ...