F-Body Europe

How do I know that my diff isn't working anymore -- or how can I test that?

Yesterday at the Ring when driving with traction control switched ON, I had the impression that it kicked in a lot more than normally. Could this be related to the diff? But maybe this was because of the temperatures or too high pressure in the rear tires...

Ben

I mean, really good tires don't leave marks.

The best way to test a LSD is to drop the clutch, or get it going as best you can, alot of times they will pop during a burnout just befoer they go out.

Meaning if your doing a light burnout and you start hearing a mechanical clunk from the rear of your car, it's going out, if you look back, and your only burning one tires, it's pretty much fried, if your only burning one tire out and you modulate the brakes, and it starts to spin both and you walk forward, then it's almost gone, but it's still there a little.

Also, a simple couple of throttle induced turns can help you figure it out as well. Depending on how quickly the rear end kicks out that is.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Ben

Ben is it a Torsen or Clutch differential?

Roy: It's a Torsen.

Tested it today on the N'ring again:
It's definitely not working anymore. Whenever I step on the gas in tight corners, revs go up (inside wheel spinning) and there's no acceleration until about I've set the steering wheel straight.

Now I'm thinking about the replacement... BTW, is it complicated to change the differential?

Ben

No not complicated , just has to be exact.

Ben I've got an used Auburn diff if you need something to tie you over for a decent price. Has less than 60K on in perfect shape.

I have to add something:
I ONLY have problems in right-hand bends! Left-hand = no problem, everything's as usual.

I wonder if technically it's possible that the diff is working correctly on ONLY one side? Or is it maybe something else, but what...?

Silas:
Thanks for the offer! However I guess when it's got 60K on it and with all my race track driving it won't hold very long...? Is that a standard Auburn or a "Pro"?

Ben

Ben, if you want a new Torsen, I got a T2R for about $600 delivered. Let me know if you want me to see if I can get one for you. I'm heading to the States and will be back about the 24th. I don't think I can bring it back with me though.

Ben it's the standard.

Jerry, I thought about the T2R but I don't think I want one as there were some durability issues with it recently. If I buy a new one, I'm leaning towards the TrueTrac as it has no clutches (like my stock Torsen and like the T2R) to wear out.

Silas, thanks for the info, I guess it should be OK for me as I was actually happy with my stock diff until it broke. I'm going to decide what I do within the next days so please don't throw it away in the meantime...

Ben

No problem Ben. I'll hold it.

I've got a T2r in my car and absolutely love it, my next build will be for the drags so I'll go with a harder core setup, but for autocross etc.. this is spot on, works great daily and for the strip as well.

Update:
I've decided to order a new TrueTrac differential, to not have to worry about clutches.

Ben

Ben,
I have the same problem in my '97 WS6 which has about 110K on it. I'm looking at new traction systems and am leaing toward the Truetrac too. Let me know what you think of it...

Roy, you have a locker don't you; would you recommend a LSD for Auto-X/Roadcourse v.s. a locker?

Thanks,

Josh

Josh I would go with any thing else but a Detroitl Locker . That was three years of experimenting that with less than great expectations. I now Have a Tru trac in the car now.

Thanks Roy. I will most likely be getting a Truetrac for this season. Did you stil have your Locker?

Josh

Yes , the locker is still sitting in my Garage.