F-Body Europe

Its driving me nuts. It surges or stumbles steadily but when I smack it, it seems to be fine. Its almost like a steady miss. I think it might be a sensor, MAF? MAP? I think if it was the opti, it would do it even under wot.

Anyone know of any good tranny shops that can do a T-56?

Bad gas or dirty injectors would do it. Does it spark Knock at all?

None that I can hear, but I dont have a scan tool so I cant really tell.

As far as the tranny problem goes back off the shift stop 1/2 turn the is the adjustments on the base of your shifter I am guessing you have a aftermarket shifter or you would not be having this problem. You must adjust it when it is warm a little loose is better than to tight.

Jeff, check the simple things like a loose or bad plug, burnt or loose wire. Check the fuel filter and hook it up with a good injector cleaner.


As far as the tranny drain it, check for metal shavings or particles. Refill it with new fluid. The fluid in these can burn as in a Automatic Tranny. It is very hard to break things in a T-56 unless you are beating it constantly.... First do what Bruce posted, the shift stops might be affecting, but most shifters only have a 3rd/4th stop.... Also is it really all the way in reverse when it pops out. Occasionally I get mine in a false reverse.

I will check those things. I am on SOG tonight so, I have all night to work on it in my shop.

Jeff

Must be fun to work on your car all night in a shop. some people have all the luck.

Heck, bring it down Bruce, I have all access to play in here all I want after duty hours.

What brand of injector cleaner should I use? I am going to run some through it today.

Well I replaced the fuel filter that with over 95k on it was on there since it was built. I also found that half of my elbow was all crammed all up in my throttle body since it is ripped in two different places where it clamps onto it. Also I have about 1/4" of sludge on the throttle body blades and in the TB, what will clean it off? Can I take it off without damageing the Gaskets?

I tried adjusting the stops on my ripper, but its inside the tranny Can anyone reccomend a good inexspensive shop that can do my T-56?

I am thinking of tackling it myself with the help of a manual. If I dont, I imagine by the time OSL comes, I wont have reverse!

Thanks guys,
Jeff

It looks like it is in the tranny but the adjustments are in the base with a alen or torsen wrench at least that is where mine was. It has a boot around it. That T-56 is almost bullet proof and reverse is not syncronised if that is the only gear you are having problems with then it is the shifter the foward stop controls 1st,3rd,5th &R. I had the same problem. I have some unleaded racing fuel that will clean your injectors up. That is what I use and it works awesome. I reccomend you degree your cam 4 degress advance and the sludge will go away and you will have more power. Did you get the spec card with the cam? I think your shuttering will be gone then also. My opinion only.

Adjustments in the tranny? Are you talking about the stops on the shifter? I adjusted those, I even backed the think all the way off and it still does the same. Or are you talking about adjustments in the tranny itself, like if I pull the shifter off, there is some there? The problem is getting worse though.

Jeff

There is a plastic cup under the ball of the shifter that could be broke it also. Make sure there is a light coat of grease on it. You may have a bent fork. How did it all start? our trannies do not like R when they are cold. What do you think about your cam advance how was it installed?

I dont know how they put it in. I had a dealer do it for me.

Hey I bet they put your cam in strait up that is the way dealers think. It is a pretty easy to advance it once you take the timing chain off. Sounds like cheap power to me and I think it would help your low end also. My opinion only FWIW but it sounds like your valves are opening a little before the spark at Idle as soon as it is spun up the computer advances the timing temporaily curing the problem. But not really what you are discribing will cost you 10-30 hp easy depending on Lobe seperation dur and centerline. Take your time and fix it this winter after the race and you will see what I mean.J/K LOL