F-Body Europe

Ok gents, I got the "GO" from the ol' lady so i'm gonna go ahead and get that full Lt-1 package that Randy had for sale
Yes, i'm a happy man as i've been looking to this project for quite some time now.
I first opted for a 95 Lt-1 as this would be the best option (compatibility) for my 95 Camaro but after months of searching i wasn't able to find a complete one at a fair price.
Just when i'd had given up hope i met Randy at the last meeting and this was just the thing i'd been hoping for.

Now, i read the FAQ and know the differences between the 94 and 95 Lt-1 and i have several questions.
I was planning to use the Lt-4 Hot Cam kit on that engine, but this isn't completely problem free right ?
Someting with the dowel pin, and gears that are different.
I know the Opti is a pain but the 95+ is supposed to be a bit less painfull, so would it be recommended to change it to the 95+ style ?

Any suggestions ?

Also i will be changing the timing chain and waterpump as i want to insert that engine and not worry about it for a long time, any suggestions ?

Well I am not the LT1 expert, but from what I have heard the 95+ opti is vented which makes it a better piece. There has been nothing but good things said about the Mezerie electric water pump. Timing gears are better than chain, but you will have noise. Hopefully the LT1 guys will jump in and help me out....

Serg? Leave the timing gear alone. It'll give you more headaches that it's worth. The LT4 KM won't be able to counter all that noise. Get a new heavy duty chain LT4 or a new LT1 w/ the LT4Km and you'll be fine.

I had the hotcam in my 93 and you just shorten the dowel pin. Don't cut it but it should slide w/ a little force in or out for your adjustment. It's a breeze. Glad to hear you finally got what you were lookin for. Now your really one of US!

John, what do you mean with the timing gear ?
Isn't it the best to replace all those gears when the timing chain is replaced ?

My goal is too achieve that really Lopey sound, plus i want it all to be as reliable as a clock.
I heard something about the LT4 heavy duty timing kit that wouldn't work on the 94 as the Opti cover is different.
Does that heavy duty chain fit the factory gears ?

Oh, and YES i bet it would be good to be part of the V8 clan, but it's not that far yet ..
The swap will NOT be without major problems (it's always like that) and i have to get my hands on a T56 before next spring without having to sacrifice an arm, a leg and my left nut !
If you guys happen to see such a Tranny let me know.

The mezeire electric pump will work, you just remove the shaft and thingies that drive the stock pump, plug it with an engine plug, and viola you can put a double roller chain on there. (this is what a mechanic in OKC told me anyhow) It seems that the stock chain is a wee bit loose on there, and the one that is .500 shorter is to tight. (I am trying to parrot back all the info that guy gave me) plus there would be some spare ponies released as a result.

The timing gears are not the way to go, and I base this on the fact that nooooo body is doing it on they're buildups. John is right about the KM going haywire and pulling handfuls of timing out of the car. Hell, changes to headers and and Ypipe will sometimes set it off.

The differance between the 94 and 95 opti, is a little rubber straw (basically) that comes out and sticks into the bellows at about the middle of the 90deg bend. I have a 95 1LE bellows, and it has the vent hole. The opti's are the basically the same internally except for that. That may or may not pay divedends as you are in the European rain forest, but I hear about just as many 95-up cars having opti problems as pre 95, so....

anyway, good luck

if you are planning to maybe do the Hotcam, I would ask you why you dont.
1. Do the full LT4 conversion (Jim Pace sells the whole show for just a touch over 2K)
2. Or better yet, a CC306 with ported heads/intake ???

The reason I ask, is it is obvious this isnt a budget buildup, even if you are trying to find the cheapest route (who wouldn't) so why dont you do it right the first time.

The Hotcam kit is good, but for the LT1 at least it is a mild cam. You will definatally be stronger than most non cammer's, but....after time, the what ifs will set in.

Maybe that is just me.
....Either way you go, you need headers,(preferably LT's, since the aftermarket is starting to develop some really good ones) larger Tbody, and a good program(custom not Hypertech or Jet), to get the full rewards of any engine buildup you take.
just my .02

Ok, the 'timing gears' (gears instead of that chain) is now clear to me, my bad !!

Well, i AM on a budget as i'm spending next years lunch money on this engine already. Keep in mind that i have to get a tranny also.

Just replacing certain parts (Chains, gaskets, waterpump) and mildly modifying that engine (headers, wires, Camshaft, RR's, etc.) will add up so ported heads, ported intakes, bigger TB's, etc. simply can not be afforded right now.

I will only be doing the things like that cam and headers now since the engine will be out of the car anyway. Heads, intake, injectors, bigger TB can be done when the engine is in the car and i have some more $$ in the year 2004 or so.

I was personally thinking of using MAC headers as they are affordable and seem to have a good fit according to most.
A PCM repogram is also planned and will be done by Must go Faster Racing in FL.

These past few months i've been keeping an eye on classifieds and i was hoping to find a complete Lt4 setup for sale but i didn't have much luck.

Thank you for responding,

At a minimum, check out some of the online how to's and do a home cleanup on the heads. As far as the MAC's, yes you can get at the plugs really good, and they seem to fit good in most cases, but, I paid 450 for the headers and Ypipe, another 40-50 for the off road, they come with cheesy paper gaskets, so figure in gaskets (not much, but it adds up).

Keep in mind that the headers and the y pipe werent coated so future corrosion will be an issue. Your looking at around 500-525 in parts unless you buy used. Now, you can get LT which will run around 1100-1200 but that includes everything to include off road and high flow cats, the headers and Y pipe are ceramic coated. You will gain 10-15hp over the MACs as a bonus.

If you are going to cam either mild or wild you want the higher flow to maximize your gains. So at least go with a 1 3/4 header, shortie or not.

An offroad pipe is not an option as we DO have emmission checks here so that is a no go.
The extra $$$ for the LT's won't fit the budget so i will be the MAC's.
Seen them for as much as $359 including the Y-pipe.

I've seen the home porting, but my main concern is to make an LT-1 that puts out just as much as a Stock LS-1, has the Lopey sound Roy98SS has, and is VERY reliable.

I will be reusing my SLP dual CAI and my Borla Muffler section. I'll have a custom 3" Int. Pipe from the Cat Back to the Borla done here in Holland.
My worries at the moment is what i should do about the Opti, timing chain, waterpump, gears as there are several ways to go.

Thanks,

Okay, just making suggestions.

Btw...A offroad pipe is 4 bolts off then 4 bolts on with cat. Emission check concerns are a moot point with that.

And to make a LT1 run with an LS1 doesnt require very many bolt ons, especially not a cam.

If you are just looking for a lopey idle just pull a spark plug wire off .

First of all Robert, i appreciate your replies and suggestions as i could need ALL the help i could get.
I'm new to this ball game as i've focused myself over the past 5 years on the V6.

An offroad pipe does make sense now you mention it where i can have it swapped with the Cat just for inspection.

I know that the Cam is not really needed to make up for the lack of HP compared to the LS1 but i want to do that as it will be something i should need to do as i'll have the engine out of the car anyway, same with the opti, timing chain, headers, etc.
The rest (heads, intake, TB, etc.) can be done without too many problems even when it's in the car.

But looking at ET's an Dynoes i've noticed that it takes more than CAI, wires, pullies and a freeflowing exhaust to be on par with the LS-1's as they are just freakin' Fast !!

Taking of a sparkplug sounds pretty neat

There are always going to be "quick" cars, but atleast in my case, I havent needed more than CAI, headers/catback, pulley, to keep in front of the LS1's.

I dont want to start another marathon post about the, this vs. that again, but you only hear about the 5% that are fast, you dont hear about the 95% that are just 30-40hp more powerful.

BTW that is why I hate posting on a computer, because the voice inflection, and sometimes the meaning is screwed up. ie I sound like an obnoxious ass (basically true;) ) when I'm just throwing out ideas.

happy motoring

Robert, Have you done anything special to that optispark unit to keep it working properly ?

....involves chicken bones and a commanche head dress!!

No, not really, (knock on wood) I just dont drive thru or allow water near the front of the car. I would like to do one of those crime scene maps of the people who have had problems though, because my money is on the fact that most of them live in very high humidity areas like the south east.
Of course you know, mine will go out today, and I will have to walk 10 miles uphill in the dark while being chased by an F6 tornado!!!!!!!

While searching for the differences between the 94 and 95 LT-1 i found this bit of info claiming that the 95 has stronger connecting rods which allow it to take more abuse.
I didn't really believe it, but i just wanted to make sure.
Didn't see it mentioned in the Fbody FAQ either btw.

I remember reading somewhere about the change. I believe they did change, but I cant remember how it changed. Either way, the rods in either year will long outlast the crank or pistons.

I want to say that the pre 95 rods were forged and the 95 up went to a differant process (probably way off here)...........Jamey!!! help

Now we are getting somewhere

What would you reckon would be the best mods for the buck keeping a budget of about $1500 in mind ??

(note that i have 3.23 gears, SLP CAI, Borla muffler and will have a custom build 3" Int. med pipe.)
What would you add to that 94 Lt-1 to make it fast/reliable ??

you know the drill, fast is a relative term and means something differant to differant people, but with that said.
1. Headers and Y pipe - shorties if you dont plan heads/intake/ or a wild cam as this will become your next bottle neck.
2. Underdrive pulley - cheap and will help your motor rev faster
3. PCM upgrade from a reputable company, (I'm not slamming Hypertech or JET here, but I dont think they are worth the $
4. Consider taller gear ratio, at least 3.73
5. Dont forget that you have to plant that power, their are several LT1's in the stock classes running 10's without lifting the valve covers, that means LCA, torque arm, also dont let the chasis rob your power, brace it with STB, subframes, G load brace.
so 1. 450 +/-
2. 50-75
3. 250
4. ??? depends on if you do it, but a kit is around 250
5. ??? depends on how many susp mods you do
Lastly, if you dont get a hurst or B&M be prepared to miss the 2-3 upshift alot.
These cars will nickel and dime you to death, LT4 KM, CD ignitions, tranny mounts, rear end covers....yada yada yada
I guess it depends on what fast means to you, if it is to keep up with the LS1's, the secret is not to get in the hole at the top of 2nd gear, make sure you can launch hard and capitolize on better low end torque, if you have the advantage then you are in great shape.

Rob, That is good advice, but I really wish I would have had a chance to run you before the Polizei showed up. I am not knocking Jack, but no one knows their car better than the owner...........$.02