F-Body Europe

Ok 1 week I'm doing my thing and I go tow my car out to HRP
(I just like racing it as cold as possible) Ok I race all night make like 8 passes the girl I was with wanted to see how fast the car really was so she got in , complained it was hot because I had the AC off I turned it on we went up and down the road a few times and loaded it up on the trailer with the AC working. The next week I decide ill just drive the car out, I go to turn on the ac and i sit and wait and wait and wait for the car to cool down (im not a pussy I just live in Texas where it gets wicked ass hot) well the AC just never worked and hasnt since. The compressor cycles and when I turn the AC on I can hear the usual Hisssss it always does but it dont work. any ideas?????

And Also since I like to be resourcefull (cheap) I like to make all the bolt on parts for my car since I dont wanna waste money on something that dont work. I got 1 more month till my car is payed off and i have no money meanwhile im just itching to go faster. So I decided "He said POOP" ill just make a Throttle Body airfoil like they sell for 50 bucks.

Has any1 ever used 1 and have the numbers to show it Possitively works?

This is the second time you've mentioned you like to do your own work to save money, so you need to spend the $100 and get a Helms Manual for you car. Its the same books the eggheads at goodwrench use to troubleshoot with.

As far as the airfoil goes, sure I got one, but I've never seen/felt/read anything that says its a benefit. Wait until you have more flow potential in the heads, and need a 52mm or a 58mm Tbody. They come with a built in airfoil

A couple of suggestions on cost vs. performance
I dont know if you've done these or thought of them, but incase you havent:

Headers - 1 3/4 shorties at a minimum
3" mandrel pipe from the headers back (cats are monolith style, no big gain from gutting them)
crank underdrive pulley
synth oil everywhere engine/tranny/diff (proven 5rwhp+)

There is easily 50hp right there if not more. Unfortuanatly this is the one hobby that is impossible to do cheaply after the K&N and the octane booster

Unfortunately I would like to race NHRA stock Eliminator ....and thanks for remiding me I have a 300+ page service manual on my car already I just forgot ever since I used it to change my distributor!!!! thanks for reminding me lol

Well the rules for Stock Eliminator go like this......
-Motor cannot be bored more than .060 over

-Strokers not allowed however you may have an offset grind performed on a stock crank at max of .013 more stroke

-Cam may not have more than Stock Lift.

-Factory Rockers, & Lifters only.

-Stock Intake & Heads only No porting Permitted

-No wheel tubbing

-Must retain all interior with exception of back seat if rollbar is installed.

-only chevrolet rear end may be used on chev. (fomoco & fomoco, mopar & mopar etc.)

-Stock Style suspensions only.

-no power adders.

-Must have a certain Power/Weight Ratio

So basically these guys are running with a
-12 bolt, 4.88+ geared Rear end at least.
-Super High RPM high Duration stock lift cam
-Super High Stall Torque Converter
-Long Tube headers no exhaust
-30x9x15" Slick
-Slight Suspension mods & Subframe Connectors (eg. 90/10 front shocks)
-and weighing in at usually about 3,200 - 3,300 pounds and
running 10.80's @ 115
and still pulling the wheels 3 feet high in the process
With a near STOCK MOTOR!!!

That is a noble idea, and I know where your going with it, but I can see that this kind of racing would be far, far from inexpensive if you want to win at it.

Since you are strapped with stock parts, you have to go find the power through major blueprinting. Everything from the oil pump gears, to the waterpump impeller deburred. Several sets of stock rods and pistons until you find eight of the lightest most balanced stock parts. All your cam/crank grinds would have to be custom jobs with several of them tried until you find the production tolerances that give you alittle more stroke or lift.

The loop hole is the suspension. Stock type generally means stock pick up points only. So there could be major money in the suspension as well as major performance. I would think the rear is a no brainer, 12 bolt with 4.56+, probably have to play with tire height/gear ratio alot.

Your right it is incredible what a near stock car can achieve when its optimized. I dont have much exposure with Fbody factory, but I do know that the factory stock cobra's are running a 11.8 index with just gears,cold air and exhaust w/cats and the cars must run on DR's with full interior. (and no that isnt the '03, it is banned from the factory stock class )

Well there is a list of Aftermarket Acceptable Stock Replacement pistons. so just find out what set makes most compression or which is lightest and walla. Im also getting a CSI electric water pump conversion kit from jegs ($130) not so much for reducing drag on the motor since a water pump creates very little drag but because I can turn on my electric fan & water pump when the car is not running and keep it cool as all hell in between rounds.. Temp shouldnt go above 120 with no thermostat like I have now.

couple of things, I dont know about CSI, but it should be the same as Meizere. The M waterpump made a 10rwhp diff over stock (every little helps).

You really need your car to be at operating temp for peak efficiency. 120 sounds to cool to me (dont think you can hold it there, but anyway)

160-180 seems more in line, but hey cars are differant

Well, I dont run a thermostat at all and.... I run an electric fan at all times when the car is running

I never get the temp guage to even start moving and my car runs best 2nd pass off every time (first pass thins the fluids)

I figure I can trailer my car to the track run ... sit an hour with fan and pump on, run, sit an hour and so on... That should stay under 120

oh how do I add a pic of my car to my posts? HTML??