F-Body Europe

I noticed when I had my car in the air and was going through all the gears after my shift kit install....that I had no back brakes....I stood on the floor and nothing.......I pulled the ebrake handle......nothing.......I did bolth at the same time........nothing..........the wheels slow down but I cant stop them

These are ordinary Disk Brakes not drums...

I machined the badly grooved rotors and put on new pads and bled the back brakes........nothing

Why wont my back brakes work!?
Im loosing some Free ET....I been 13.03 but I can only torque the car up to 1000 RPMS on the line because only the front brakes are holding her back.....I could launch way harder if my back brakes worked right......

Does anybody have a clue why they wont work?

The pedal is hard as a rock and doesnt sink.......

Im stumped please help me!

Pistons frozen in the calipers?
Calipers frozen on the caliper guide pins?

unfortuneatly, no its not that simple


however im glad to see u didn't post something like these guys.... boy they sure helped....

http://web.camaross.com/forums/showthre ... post529233

Hm ... no expert, just from personal experience with my '79 - did you try bleeding your rear breaks? Is there anything coming out of the lines when you do? Problems with the master cylinder? (my '79 didn't put out anything to the rear)

yes I vacuum bled the rear brakes and saw NO air at all.....The Brake Pedal is firm, and not spongy....

Also camaro brakes are plumbed diagonally...so if one part of the cylinder fails the other part powers one front and an opposing rear...and my back brakes dont work.....so it cat be a mastercylinder issue...

Have you tried bleeding the ABS module? Look for a adjustment on the park brake cable and try to adjust it.

Steven Camaro Brakes aren't plumbed diagionally. THAt is a technique used on Front wheeldrives. Of course if you show me in a trade book than I will have to research it.

On that model of Camaro 93-97the ebrake and rear service brakes are integral or are suspose to be one. You should see acable connected to your rear caliper. Which means you have to break out the manual and do a brake adjustment for the ebrake. This will readjust the piston in the wheel cylinder. If you readjusted with a clamp you may have destroyed the ratcheting mechinism.

If you still have no e brake and the cables are good to the ebrake . Then probably your rear calipers need replacing.

The ebrake mechanism must be adjusted and functionally properly in order for the rear brakes to function properly.

Please If I'm wrong in theory let me know.

and oh (I said feces) I pushed the pistons back with clamps!! I dont get it though they slid back there easy as hell I didnt have to fight them..
no but good idea ill brake out the repair manual!

Ive noticed on every vehicle that I've worked on with integral park brake .
Is that iy either have to rotaTE THE PISTON AS YOU PUSH or remove a cap plug and use a allen key ,torx key to make the adjustment.
But this only applies to single piston rear brakes.

ooh I got a allen shaped bolt looking thing in the ceter of the piston but I didnbt know what it did how do I adjust my single piston rears? the pistons are oval shaped not round so I cant turn the whole piston

I wish I could help you more , but I don't have a book for 4gen LT1 fbody's.

I have a Haynes Manual but it dont say "He said POOP" about adjustment...

U know of any online repair manuals?

Can a combination valve go out?

yes combination valves can become faulty. But I believe your combination /proportioning valve is part of the ABS module.

I'm Fucked

I would be double checking everything and getting a second opinion before replacing the abs module . Rember the park brake is not affected by the ABS module. I still believe it is in the caliper or caliper piston park brake adjustment.

....Yeah but bolth back brakes dont work....

I think I am confusing you here. Lets get som prelims out of the way.

1. Does your park brake cable connect to your rear caliper.

2. Does yor car have TCS(4channel ABS)

3. Can you see any kinks or twists in the rear service brake lines

Under the premise that the park cable is hooked to the caliper . Then it is fair to say that the only way to adjust the park brake is through the caliper. When this is done , the piston in the rear caliper is postion ed to for optimum clamping force. Once you have the clamping force with the park brake, then there is no way basically for the piston to be knocked back in the piston bore due to axle shaft play.
Also important is that the rear caliper slides on the rear guide with hand effort.

Now back to your hard pedal . the most forward line on your master cylinder is your rear line. Now in side the master cylinder sleeve is two pistons . One is connected or pushed on directly by the brake booster actuator. That is for your front brakes, and it is linked with most rearward line on your mastercylinder. The other piston is pushed by spring pressure which is generated by the MCpiston for the front brakes.

Bottom line is that you could have a slight internal leak on the MC rear brake which could or could not cause your brake light to come on.

So basically if you sytematically ruled out that rear brake calipers are serviceable and there is no provision for manual or automatic adjustment. and you got a good power bleed.
the next thing to check is to inspect the lines
then the mastercylinder
then the abs module.

You know Steve I am not trying to overwhelm you or anything, But please remember I could be leading you down the wrong path or something.

My gut is telling me there is some type of brake caliper adjustment

Good luck man

thanks a bunch roy Ill check the lines in a minute or two......boy will I feel link and ass if the line is kinked...the Calipers are in perfect shape, the slide and the piston moves like it should




I unplugged the ABS module to see if that is the cause and the brakes still act wierd....but that doesn't rule it out I guess.

Did your ABS light come on when you unplugged it?

Yes it did, no there is no kinked lines.....