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[ 15 posts ] |
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RobH
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Post subject: so far so good on the rebuild Posted: Thu May 01, 2003 2:54 am |
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Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 2:48 am Posts: 399 Location: Lawton, Ok
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I got my motor stripped down to a block with heads. I dont plan on replacing much, because it is pretty much a brand new top end. I am however gonna seize the moment and do some serious cleaning of the 9 year old dirt/crude, and replace/re tie the cable holders.
I ordered a 1LE ac delete pulley, but as far as removing the ac stuff, has anyone done it? I'm wondering if I should just remove the stuff up to the block the 2 pipes attach (by the ecm) or should that go also?
The motor should be out saturday, then tore down to its base elements to be carted off to the shop monday. During that time I will be cleaning up the heads, replacing the springs, and having the ports cleaned up alittle bit. (the cnc has bugged me, cuz it ported them, but not polished I'm not gonna remove any material, only smooth it down).
BTW, if you havent ported your MAF I would advise against it. I ordered a new one today from Dal. His price is 230, but they list for over 400 *ouch*!!! Basically I got a new opti,MAF and pulley for the price of a MAF anywhere else.
I'll update periodically, and link some pics as I go. But I hope to be at the track by mid june (work schedule will be what slows me down)
Rob
_________________ http://www.neverliftchassis.com
http://www.racelens.com
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Hawk
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Post subject: Posted: Thu May 01, 2003 6:24 am |
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 4:25 pm Posts: 4288 Location: Vilseck
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good luck are you going with longer 6.00 rods
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RobH
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Post subject: Posted: Thu May 01, 2003 1:21 pm |
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Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 2:48 am Posts: 399 Location: Lawton, Ok
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Hawk wrote: ...... you going with longer 6.00 rods
no, the stock ones will do for what I want. I'm just having the rods checked, crank polished. The only new motor pieces will be cam, springs, stud the block, pistons, rings, 7qt pan with windage tray and ARP bolts through out.
The main reason behind this, is I only wanted/needed a ring job, but figured it was worth it to do the other stuff too. I'm having comp grind me a cam that is basically a CC306, but the powerpeak has been moved way down to about 6.2-6.3k. Thats why I fill safe with the stock bottom end.
Should be good for 340-370rwhp.
We shall see, motor goes to the doctor monday, so everything is hinged on if the crank and rods check out. They should, there is only 65k miles on them, but who knows?
Rob
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RobH
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Post subject: Posted: Tue May 06, 2003 4:28 am |
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Senior Member |
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Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 2:48 am Posts: 399 Location: Lawton, Ok
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well the newest update....
started at 1300, and the tranny and engine were sitting in my garage at 1600. I had stripped it down before hand, but it still came out the top with no hitches. From what I can tell, the engine is in great shape. Every cylinder is smooth as a babies butt, no crosshatch, but no scratches or scars. I can only eyball it, but tdc the pistons are leaving alot on the table. I probably have 3/8" of varnish where the pistons stop.
This is my take. The car was not programmed for the LT4 conversion. Its obvious it was running rich, and that is programing fault without exception. If I was a betting man, I would say Ed programmed me for 4.10's and nothing else. (only my thoughts, but the evidence is strong against him)
The next thing that looks suspicious is the cam freeze plug is full of rtv and oily as hell. My bellhousing had a generous amount of residue, and I wont talk about the tranny. Hopefully my clutch is okay, it looks like it, and there are a couple hot spots on the flywheel (no biggie cuz its trash can material).
Tomarrow I'm gonna pop the mains, and check the bearings. I'm betting they're okay. (gonna change 'em, but I want to know).
I may be up sooner than I thought, for cheaper also.
C'ya later
Rob
_________________ http://www.neverliftchassis.com
http://www.racelens.com
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RobH
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Post subject: Posted: Tue May 06, 2003 4:47 am |
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Senior Member |
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Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 2:48 am Posts: 399 Location: Lawton, Ok
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...Just alittle update, my car looks like it will have its valvetrain and list of machine work tweaked on by my neighbor. Should be interesting, he is a true blue ford fanatic hey, I'm willing to give him a shot, he built his car, and it runs mid 8's .(and yeah, I saw him drag the bumper)
I tried real hard to trade him my big valve LT4'a for his Yates heads, but no-go! Oh well, maybe he will help me out with a direct port.
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fbody97
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Post subject: Posted: Tue May 06, 2003 11:35 am |
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Joined: Mon May 28, 2001 7:29 pm Posts: 1175 Location: fairfield, CA
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Stupid question i guess, but is this motor going to be a blower motor or what? Good luck either way.
_________________ Dave Brooks
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My96z
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Post subject: Posted: Tue May 06, 2003 11:12 pm |
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Joined: Sun Jul 22, 2001 5:14 pm Posts: 646 Location: Landstuhl, Germany
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Seems all is going well for you. I would think that a 306-ish cam and ported LT4's would go just a touch north of 400 RWHP. What pistons did you go with?
I will get that CD out to you as soon as I can, I am in the middle of a move. I can have all the beaters, hoopties and self made junkyard I want to. I found a place out in the country, no neighbors in site. I could walk outside naked and no one would see lol.
Keep us posted Rob. You get the pics I sent? I had more to send but I filled your inbox
_________________
89 Dodge caravan turbo project.
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RobH
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Post subject: Posted: Wed May 07, 2003 2:58 am |
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Senior Member |
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Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 2:48 am Posts: 399 Location: Lawton, Ok
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Dont know what pistons, I'm kinda waiting on the diagnosis of the rods and crank. Also I'm not sure if it will need to be bored (I personally think its not gonna need it, but I'm no pro either).
I'm gonna go with PCM4less tuning this go-around, still no real good way to get a dyno tune around here, so between him and my own datalogging, hopefully I can get it to run right.
Dave, I tossed around the blower idea, but in the end I dont think I'm going that route. For what I want out of the car, I dont need the power of a S-trim all the time. Not to mention the ever sky rocketing prices you get into with that equipment. I'm just not ready for that. Besides, now that I have a cherry picker and a system pulling the motor doesnt seem so scary . Look for a motor that will drink 150 shots and be happy about it. Atleast that is the plan.
Rob
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Hawk
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Post subject: Posted: Thu May 08, 2003 6:27 am |
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 4:25 pm Posts: 4288 Location: Vilseck
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I got a hook up with forged diamond pistons and forged Lunati rods less than you think.
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badazzlt1USA
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Post subject: Posted: Thu May 08, 2003 6:51 am |
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 3:21 pm Posts: 192 Location: Houston, TX, USA
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hell no!
Everyone pulls the motor!
I can tell you right now from experience on a V6 car (pulling through the top)
and a V8 car (mine)
Dropping the crossmember, Tranny, Suspension, and everything in one little package is a HELL of alot faster and easier...
I got mine out in 7 hours, while playing on the computer most of the time and slacking off
You can do it in under 4 if you really want to
Thats with hand tools btw
_________________ LT1 Edit, B&M shift kit, Long tube Headers, 4.10 Gears, M/T ET Drags
13.022 @ 105.14
1.869 60'
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Hawk
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Post subject: Posted: Thu May 08, 2003 7:41 am |
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 4:25 pm Posts: 4288 Location: Vilseck
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I pulled the LS1 -heads out the top with tranny in 4 hrs.
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badazzlt1USA
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Post subject: Posted: Thu May 08, 2003 9:30 am |
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 3:21 pm Posts: 192 Location: Houston, TX, USA
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I swear out the bottom is 1,000 times easier
You just gotta have a way to lift the car up high enough get the motor out from under it, cherry picker tied the the upper rad support might do it, I used two forklifts though
_________________ LT1 Edit, B&M shift kit, Long tube Headers, 4.10 Gears, M/T ET Drags
13.022 @ 105.14
1.869 60'
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RobH
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Post subject: Posted: Sat May 10, 2003 1:18 am |
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Senior Member |
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Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 2:48 am Posts: 399 Location: Lawton, Ok
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It may be as easy as you say, but after hearing the horror stories about taking it out the top I was dreading it.
Came out with no drama, super easy. There is a trick with the motor mounts that I wont tell you about (some things are best learning first hand...LOL ) but all and all it was easy. Then again, I dont mind doing headers anymore either.
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badazzlt1USA
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Post subject: Posted: Sat May 10, 2003 2:51 am |
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Joined: Tue Oct 15, 2002 3:21 pm Posts: 192 Location: Houston, TX, USA
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neither do I, considering the headers are on the motor when I put it in ! :-p
_________________ LT1 Edit, B&M shift kit, Long tube Headers, 4.10 Gears, M/T ET Drags
13.022 @ 105.14
1.869 60'
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Hawk
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Post subject: Posted: Tue May 13, 2003 7:42 am |
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 4:25 pm Posts: 4288 Location: Vilseck
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I am doing mine out the top minus intake.
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