F-Body Europe

I have a 350 SB, I checked on one of those calculators my E/T(16.1 avg.) and the weight of my car(apox 3500 if that sounds right). It said Im aprox. running 185 HP. I am running a msd 6al ing, MSD pro billit distributor, MSD coil 2, holly 4 barrel 650 cfm, tci streetfighter 700R4, and B&M 3000 stall converter. I feel that my times should be a lot better with all the work iv put into the car. My drive shaft is old and so is my rear end on the car. Could this be robbing me of HP and making the car so slow? Any suggestions on where to start for new rear end and drive shaft. Any suggestions on what going on? One last question any one know the stock weight of my car? 84 Z28

Well, are those E/T's from Bitburg? That's gonna throw it off some.

Plus, how many miles you got on it? That's a factor.

That was my avg from BIT. not to sure about the miles on the engine The guy i bought the car from, said the engine was rebuilt and had aprox. 1000 miles on it but who knows. so i would say if he was correct it now has 5 or 6 thousand on it.

Well, Bitburg isn't the best track. Most people say that you can add a .5 to your E/T's.

Do you know what the guy put in the motor?

No i dont know the guy, i dont know much else about the eng. eather

Well, you're pretty much screwed unless he can prove what's in it.

I'm tellin you, you can hop that thing up pretty cheap and easy

Check this

http://www.sdpc2000.com/catalog/2172/SDPC-Vortec-Cylinder-Heads-and-Head-Kits.htm

Thanks this will help a lot. Also what about the rear stuff I think that might br part of the problem to??

What was your trap speed in the 1/4? That is a better way to calculate the HP of the engine. What gears are you running in the rear end? Gears were the first thing I changed on my old Camaro and it made a huge difference. It put the engine right in its power band.

This was my best time.
60ft- 2.255
1/8- 10.277
1254 ET- 15.537
1/4 ET- 16.062
1/4MPH- 85.71


my avg speeds were around 85.55 and ET 16.1
Hopes this helps
Any suggestions on rear ends? Should i replace the hole thing ot just the gears?

My virtual engine calculator shows you are making 206 hp at the flywheel with your trap speed and a weight of 3500 lbs. Headers (long tubes), a good exhaust, and some 3.42 or 3.73 gears would drop you into the low 15s or even a high 14. What size engine is it? I would guess a 305. You need about 250hp to get to the 14s. Traction is another thing. A set of BFG Drag radials will knock some serious time off. With your current trap speed, you should be running 15.7s.

Chevy are you sure you have a 350 CI and not a 305 CI ?

I am thinking the guy lied to you or there might be something off alittle in your engine. I know if I was rebuilding a 350 mildly I would shoot for about 300hp. 250 atleast. like the rest of these guys said. gears, headers, exhaust, all that stuff makes a big difference. I am not really knowledgeable on carbs but maybe the jetting is off. I have never used the msd ignition stuff but is your base timing set right. unless you want all of the other parts I would try to make sure it is tuned correctly before I started putting all the other parts on there.
I know my 85 could hang with a 00 SS 6 speed. I don't think the guy was a very good driver. but I had long tubes, 2500 stall and I either had 2.7? or 3.73s big difference I know but it was a long time ago. my engine is a 350 bored .060 about 10.5:1 compressing, extreme energy cam I think it was a 274 grind???? old edelbrock intake and a holley 750dp

I am sure I didn't help much but I got to talk about my 85

My black Camaro is a 84 Z28, and mine came with a "305-high output", more energy efficient for street driving.

Well, my engine is trash and gone, next winter I will just get me a new 350, (Summits Stock 350 starts around $1500,-) and if the €-rate is not going to change big times, maybe a little extra. Want to keep it streetable at german gas prices = ET 17 seconds

85 is right on the tuning point. If your timing is too low it can rob some serious horsepower. The best way I found to tune small block chevy's is with a vacuum gauge. Hook it to a contanst vacuum source on the carb. Loosen the distributor hold down just enough so you can turn the distributor by hand. Crank it up and slowly turn the distributor in either direction. Watch the vacuum gauge as you do this. If it drops turn the other direction. What you are looking for is the highest vacuum setting. Once you acheive this then you can do the same for the air mixture srews (Edelbrock, Holley, Carter, and older Quadrajets). I don't know how familiar you are with carbs. Turn those one at a time watching the vacuum gauge at the same time. If the vacuum drops go the other way. As soon as you get your highest reading then stop. This always worked for me. I never used a timing light until I got over 11:1 compression. Take it out on a test run and listen for detonation. Hope this helps out.

NXZ28, Dude this totaly helps me out great information! I hope to work on the car a bit this weekend. I think my buddie has a vacume gauge so this is great.

I just want to thank everyone for the help
Im looking at getting Hooker Super Comp long headers for my next upgrade. I hope to have them by the next races.

I tend to differ .

Disconnect your SPOUT connector . It should be on the right side of the engine firewall. With out doing this you will never be able to set your initial timing because the computer will always be readjusting the timing.. Once you set it rev the engine to ensure it doesn't move.

Once set reconnect the SPOUT . Then rev the engine to see what your max advance is. A dial back timing light is good for this.

Of note , Too much initial timing could cause spark knock which when picked up, the computer will retard by six degrees. If it picks it up again it will retard another six degrees.

Chewy,
Is your car still using the computer for the timing and carb mixtures? I don't have any back ground on your car. Just assumptions. If it is then don't use the vacuum gauge because you will be fighting the computer. What kind of setup do you have?

Good point NX, I was under the assumption that it was computer controll and TPI

Sry i didnt clairfy, Im not running a computer. most of that stuff was taken out or disconected when i bought the car. Its sort of a mess theres a lot of wires that dont hook to anything ect ect ect. I have been trying to sort it all out. Im running a Holley Quadrajet replacement 650 CFM. I will take so pics today to see if any one has more advise on this. Thanks guys.