F-Body Europe

For all you people that arent real smart when it comes to valve train geometry, or for those of you that think you are but arent. Dont trust the opinion of a speed shop.

I just got the word that the pushrods recomended for 1.6 rr are in fact shorter than stock. They need to be longer than stock, so my crane rods are actually really to short. Now, I get to buy new RR and there is a good possibility that that a valve guide or guides may need some TLC also.

I will get the exact measurements in a couple days, but if you dont know exactly what you need, (like me) you could be in for a surprise. Even if you dont have damage, your giving up a dyno proven 40rwhp, proven by a guy that had they same problem as I did, from the same Internet store. I dont blame the store, I blame my ignorance ..

I know when I had my hotcam kit installed I need longer ones. So the dealer went ahead and got me the comp cams hi-techs, they're like a $130 for a set! I thought really high for a set of push rods, but they are supposedly the best. But at least I have no problems!
Who told you you didnt need them Rob? Do you want me to try to find the measurements/part number off mine for you?
I'd blame the speed shop, they are supposed to know that stuff, especially if they are the ones who sold you your top end/valvetrain.

Jeff

I should be good with the measurements/ PN. The heads are basically being tore down and put back togethore with new Pushrods/RR and studs. All the springs are going to be measured, new valve seals if needed (so far none do) and all the vavle guides checked.

This is the reason I couldnt get the rockers to tighten up right. So if you are going to do this in in the future, make sure you know what you need, and dont just assume that since all your pieces are the same brand, that you were sold the right stuff.

This wasnt from Scoggin-Dickies, thats were all the GM stuff was from, but all the Crane came from a very reputable Internet store. I dont want to bad mouth them, cuz they did send what I ordered, on time, for a decent price. I just didnt understand what part I needed.

BTW, the guy doing this couldnt believe that I havent broken any rocker studs yet. Apparently I tried to really max them out with my fiasco, and they arent real stout to begin with. ARP studs should be included when this is done, and is being done for me the second time around.

To put this into a $$$ perspective for you guys. Try to find a mech you trust that does this because he wants to. I could have drove the car out the shop yesterday for the princely sum of $400, which included, Clutch/PP/TO bearing/Flywheel resurface/rear main seal/Wiring up my Water pump w/relay/installing Fluidamper/replacing opti weatherpacs/tearing down the driver side head and specing all parts. BTW I brought no belts, gaskets, fluids in. That may be pure profit to him, cuz its 90% labor, but if I had done this to begin with it would have been cheaper than re-buying parts I broke.

Live and learn. It sucks when things get messed up, but I think it is all just part of the sport. It just wouldn't be the same for me if someone else built my car for me Hope you get everything worked out soon.