F-Body Europe

okay riddle me this batman. I swapped in the original descreened. ported MAF for the GMS MAF. This is what I know. With the GMS MAF my average O2 volts are .920 or there abouts. Put in the OE MAF, instant DTC 16 and 02's are very lean averaging around .800.

Tell me that messing with your MAF helps!!!Keep in mind that both MAFS are in the IRS ends, with Ed Wright programing for a de-screened MAF (who BTW doesnt endorse or recommend doing this), also in his defense he programed my car fat because I said I was running a 100shot wet kit.

Either way, the car makes mad power. And its a blast, but I can see a new screened unported MAF in my future.

Also as a side note, I'm investing in some software and getting a mustgofaster tune. Yes, I'm going in the PCM programing business. If your brave I'll shoot some programs your way!!

I know what you mean! I'm getting close myself to saying )(*^%$@ it and part this sucker out. All because of the brain or lack there of w/ ECM. 93's are cool but programming is a beyotch! I'm running rich w/ these symptomes.
BLM 128 that's good
BPW 66% + or - 2% still out to debate that.
02's 800 - 840 range. ??? Think I'm gonna try heated 02's since mine are located a little further back and are non heated. FLP's you know the deal Rob.
Knock 0 all across the rpm band that's good
Advance 40 degree's that's bad

Cats are still cherry red 4,6,8 cylinders cherry red also at least that's what one tech claimed he witnessed though I didn't standing right there beside him. Still out for debate. Back firing after closed loop so maybe the new flp cats are on their way out from being clogged which is possible being cherry red on more than 3 occassions. Time to put the ORP's on.

Appear to have a valve tapping but that's out for debate too.

All on a brand new engine w/ less than 600 miles. Last resort put in my Ed Wright chip today and see what happens and wait for my FP guage to get in. No one around here has one can you believe that?

The frustration............

Damn John, I knew there was so tuning left to do, but I didnt know the stats.

I'm fairly (guess) sure our cars monitor the same things, what are they scanning your pcm with. Your right your BLM's should hover right at 128 depending on what cel the thing is operating in, but I wonder what your long term (integers) changes are. Should be around 160 for both banks.

The O2 thing I never thought about, but I would hope they would reach 600degF just may take another 30sec, anyway if your running in the 840 range, that is fairly close to perfect (not sure what the ARE needs as far as ratio). The BPW's, not sure what that is, and your advance is out of this world.

Maybe it would pay for you to invest in a chip burner, and have PCM for less email you differant configs based off of some good scanning? Sounds like the left bank is leaning itself to death, and with that much advance probably firing at the bottom of the stroke. Since the car ignores the O2 input until closed loop, I would guess the backfire is a symptom of the big problem, and not another problem itself. With that much chaos going on, your right on debating the valvetrain noise, could be anything. Dont you have the hydra-rev also? That will add more noise too.

I'm sure I'm singing to the choir here, but I sure I hope it gets worked out.

Well I took 4 plugs out last night and they're soaking wet. I'm trying to find out as to why the inj are dumping fuel. Not sure if it's ecm related or fpr related. Since I don't know what setting it's at it could be part of the problem or both the ecm and fpr. So I'll be ordering some more plugs tr5's a new coil again spark is low. New wires and new heated 02's. I may hold out on the 02's and see what it does. I was trying to fire it up last night to put on the lift to put the new chip. But since I couldn't get it to run I bugged out.

I'm sure I'll have it running by the 15th. I'm changing the cats out too so I don't clog them. One this is for sure if the left bank was glowing the coating on there rocks! Because the headers looked brand new still. I did have a little smoke coming from them ( I think) because something was burning. My temps were low too like 58 degrees though the guage was a the 1/4 mark. Bad sensor maybe. The scanner he used is the snap on scanner the one that sells for like 2500 bucks and the one I want. I'll keep you posted. Thanks for the info.

If the temp gauge was reading 1/4 but the scanner was saying 58 degrees then I would home in on the sender at the waterpump. I found out I didnt have the waterpump wired correctly when the scanner was giving very low readings, and the gauge was shooting to the moon.

Still leaning towards the car knows its leaning it self out, so it is pouring on the fuel to save its life. More a ECM thing. Your car will be receptive to the AFPR unlike my knucklehead that will unlearn the pressure settings.

I dont know very much about the snap on, but I'm sure it can data log. Is there ever a point in time that all the parameters are withing the realm of normal. The car should try to run with ECM settings the first 2 min, or until the coolant hits 170deg (reaching here, not remembering) and also everytime you go wot.

If its going ape sh#t in closed loop I would think something is foul in the sensor, vacumn/exhaust leak, equipment failure dept. If from startup on, I would probably want to punch the chip programer in the nose. (of course if it fuel related that shoots my idea in the butt,... leaking injector/fuel regulator tired of regulating). Just a shot in the dark, but did you go to a differant impedence<-sp? fuel injector? And it is un-acceptable that no one has a gauge!!!!

My trouble shooting skills lack orginality, just trying to spit back what I've read in the past flavored with some WAGs(wild ass guesses). I really wish you'll find something like the flux capacitor came unhooked, or something simple like that and stop the madness.

Good luck John

Silas what type of injectors do you have?

Low resistance peak and hold injectors (2to 5 ohms) or

High resistance saturated injectors(12 to 16 ohms)?

Are they getting system voltage? Are all known and required grounds clean and tight?


Also if the one bank is glowing it couldpossibly be afterburn in the headerpipes. What I mean is the combustion process is finishing off in the Headers instead of the combustion chamber. This is typical of early opening exhaust valves.

I was also wondering if you have access to an O scope for testing out your secondary ignition leads and also to test your voltage output. Also a timing tape to fit on the damper and a dial back timing gun to check and insure each cylinder is firing I beleve 45degreess apart as pertain to your firing order.

Thanks Rob & Roy. Well I'm hoping it's not the regulator as it's fairly new 3 yrs old but only a 1yr of use since the car has been down FOREVER!!! Roy I don't know if he has a O scope. The inj are low impediance I believe but then again off the top of my head I don't know. They're Accels. I'll look on their site and find out. I'd like to punch someone in the face but they're outta range. Something tells me this lates program is my saviour that's because it's from Ed and he's always been reliable maybe that's why he's so expensive.
I'm gonna try again next wk unless I'm just bored out my mind and then I'll head down there before the wks out.

Well looking at the site they're High Impedance.

Silas
Depending on how much resistance your injectors are rated you might check to see if there geting the proper voltage and amperage. rated system voltage / injector resistence= amperage required to operate the injector.

12 volts / 12 ohms = 1amp
If your voltage is low your amps willbe also and vice versa

Well I'm gonna try the heated 02's next month. I really believe that and dialing in my FP wiil solve my problems since I don't have no exhaust leaks (thank God).

I'll let you know how it turns out. Thanks again.