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 Post subject: Low Coolant Light
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2003 8:29 am 
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Location: Giebelstadt, Germany
I keep getting a low coolant light but my temp gauge is reading perfect. I've already put 1/2 gallon of coolant in and still am getting the light.
Any suggestions?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2003 9:30 am 
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Check the level in the coolant surge tank if it is low fill it . If it is full , check the low coolant sensor for proper operation. The sensor should be in the surge tank also.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 07, 2003 8:43 pm 
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I purposly over-filled the surge tank so the car would take what it needed and it spit the rest out. I only ran the for car for maybe 45 minutes max. But, no light so far (it normally took about 5-10 minutes before the light came on). I guess I'm up and running.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Mon Sep 08, 2003 3:15 am 
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If you get it again, just burp the lines with the little brass screws with the motor running, or not if you have an electric pump.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2003 6:14 am 
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Rob H, don't understand, if I have an electric pump then don't purge?

Ok, according to Hayne's Auto Manual: they give me the options of overcooling or abnormal coolant loss. The oil on the dipstick looks fine. I am going to pop the valve covers off tonight and check for pits or evidence of a leak (I hope this isn't the case).
As for the sensor, the only one I can find is the sending unit which is under the header. All the research I've done on the cooling system ie, basic system, trouble shooting, and schematics, I have only found this sensor which is linked to the light and guage.

Anymore ideas?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Sep 09, 2003 12:05 pm 
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if you have an electric pump, you can turn it on with the engine off, and burp the system. Was what I meant.

Its how the hoses sit. The thermostat and part of the main hose sit higher than the fill cap, so you get air bubbles trapped in there. thats why the bleeder screws.

The second sensor plugs in under the water pump BTW. The gauge reads off of this one, the PCM reads from the drivers head sensor.
For temps that is.

If your looking for coolant leak because of a head gasket, then thats a differant story entirely. White smoke out the exhaust should tell on that, but if your loosing lots, I guess you need to look for milkshake oil under the valve covers/oil pan.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2003 4:24 am 
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There is no smoke at all, the oil dip stick is clean, and the radiator cap is fine. There are no power loses, no engine surgeing, knocks, or anything of the such. So I don't think the problem is major.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2003 7:21 pm 
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ok, i burped the sytem. this weekend (if i get the parts and gaskets) I'm testing the sensor (on the front of the water pump), changing the thermostat, and checking for water under the valve covers.

i've heard of something before about spraying wd-40 around the intake and heads. if the engine revs higher while spraying then there could be a possiablilty of a bad seal??? Any body heard of this?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Sep 10, 2003 7:36 pm 
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Yep. That's a good way to locate vacuum leaks. Carb cleaner works too.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2003 7:37 am 
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I'll try that after work.

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Stock Throttle Body bored 52mm, Modified airbox, desreened MAF,2800 Vigilante Convertor, Vortex Aluminum elbow, Grant D-Shaped Steering Wheel, Hooker Cat-back. Parts wating: cold air induction w/K&N


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2003 12:16 pm 
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I'd use carb cleaner myself, but are you working on a differant problem now. Coolant isnt anywhere near the intake seals.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Sep 11, 2003 4:26 pm 
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Good point. I want to check everything possiable. But I'm more curious about a bad gasket somewhere.

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Stock Throttle Body bored 52mm, Modified airbox, desreened MAF,2800 Vigilante Convertor, Vortex Aluminum elbow, Grant D-Shaped Steering Wheel, Hooker Cat-back. Parts wating: cold air induction w/K&N


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