F-Body Europe

Go and crank up one of those you got rotting away and run it!

Guess we need to make sure we have several video cameras at the track for this one!
Who all has one, with tripod preferably? I can toss in mine, and can offer to run it from the back with rear view of the track from start to finish!

I got one but it'll be set up at the AX/RC capturing the beat down that will be dished out by the F-bodys!!!!

Bench racing...........I wish we could get out and run now!!!!

The Hawk is at a disadvantage in the wet.............ain't ya !!!

I spun that freaking pully off. Going with a SLP steel one

Bruce,
I begining to wonder if it's the crank and not the pulley that's 2 in a row now. Did you do anything to the new pulley before putting it on??? What is different about the way the SLP mounts on there??? Did you use a new bolt this last time?? Might want to look into an ARP crankbolt and be done with it!!

It is aluminum remember we hat to file it to get it on!

I just figured out this weekend that the pushrods are just a little too long. I am going to have to order my third set of pushrods. The valve train is quiet but it is bleeding off just a little cylinder pressure. I also installed the QA1 12-way adjustable shocks from Thunder Racing. The fronts are coilovers with the 275# drag racing spring. Be warned that if you buy this setup you will need the rear, lower shock mounting bolts. I had to search through numerous bolt bins to find a set that will work for now.

A little rust shining through the color of a 2nd Gen is not as bad as a
gay-peach 4th gen with a push-while-popped shopping cart wing.

I am looking forward to see what Christine II is planning on me next.

I did a compression test on the engine last night to see if the valves are closing all the way. It was low at 130 psi. I changed the pushrods to a set of 7.350" that I have. The compression jumped to 170 psi. This is good new except I don't have the right length pushrods to safely run the motor. The 7.350" are too short and the valve train was clattering like crazy. I am going to order the 7.400" and call it a day.

Wow. What a PITA.

Who gave you the specs on the valvetrain geometry? Ill make them pay for the new pushrods!!

CompCams came out with some very tricked out adjustable pushrods, they work by changing the head of it.

Check them out.

Naz

I got a few recommendations from LS1 Tech. Of course, what works for some does not work for others. If you want a totally quiet motor then you can run these pushrods but it will cost you power. I can live with the sewing machine noise and maximum power. I may try out Bruce's set in his car since he is running thicker heads and gaskets. He has the correct lenght I need and his car sounds like a sewing machine on steroids.

Here is a pic I took Friday night trying to get the drag tires to fit.

Looking great bro!

Ill take some pics of mine this week as well!

Thanks. I had to grind the crap out of the rear calipers to get the rims to fit. I only had to grind a little off the front.

I had to utilize a 30mm spacer up front to clear my calipers. Im utilizing a 15 x 3.5 drag star.

Let me ask you, which springs are you using/going to use? Struts?

Naz

I have QA1/HAL 12-way adjustable shocks on the front and rear with coilovers on the front. I put on the 275# drag springs up front with the stock springs in the rear.

Looks really good!

I didn´t even notice the 4WD thing anymore!

It still has the 4wd thing going because the tires will rub the fenders. I probably will take care of it in a few weeks. Here are better photos. My left front tire was low so it sat lower in the front.

Looks good bro!

What size tire in the back?

Naz

It is a 28x10.5. It is about the biggest slick you can get on the stock wheel wells.