F-Body Europe

I thought about getting some subframe connectors for my car that (I hope) give some more stability and rigidity (for Ring driving that is ). I did a search on ls1.com and it seems that the "Kenny Brown Double Diamonds" are very good. Anyone here has those? Or others? Recommendations?

Could anyone help with ordering them, I'm thinking of shipping costs (Roy...? Still or again in Germany or on leave?)...?

Thx4info/help.

Ben

Hm... still planing on getting SFCs for my 'vert, but decent sway bars and STB will do a whole lot and are easier to install & cheaper to get ... ATM, I only have the Sway Bars (solid 34mm front, 21mm? back) plus PanHard on my 'vert, and it helped a lot ... still no Porsche yet, but ...

Hawk & I been looking at trying to fabricate some SFC's. I am taking Hawk's tower brace down to get the parts made. I think I can get them made here cheaper than $279.00.

I got the kenny Brown's work great and they are light.

I got the BMR weld in tubular SFC's. They were good value and WOW big difference.
These were welded in before the rest of the suspension job and these alone reduced alot of body roll and flex.
A book I have read recommends SFC's as the first thing to do, preferably before 30k miles, otherwise the chassis of the F body is permanently weakend.
I think the DD are the best as they do side to side strenghtening as well as front to back.

I have the BMR tubulars and they do make a considerable difference to the rigidity. My experience is that I spent a lot of time surfing the web looking for the best deals only to find they weren't interested in supplying outside the US or quoting mega-transit costs. People like Fast Toys despatch from various suppliers so the transit costs are sky high. In the end, I ordered all my stuff from the BMR website http://www.bmrfabrication.com which gives a running total of the parts and calculates the shipping cost before you order. They were consistently cheaper on transit costs than anyone else. I had a quote from one place, placed the order and they came back and had to charge an extra $110. So to reduce transit costs, use BMR and order as many parts as you can at the same time. BTW, my view and that of others on LS1.com is that the uprated rear sway bar is too harsh and will flick the car too readily into oversteer even though the limit may be higher. Sorry, i appear to have written an essay.

I got mine on ebay for less than $100 shipped. They are J&M, but are the same as BMR. If you can afford the double diamonds, get them. Either those or the LGMotorsports, which come with an x-brace for a few more $$.

Whats about the SLP X-Cross Subframe Conectors? Are they good? You can get they fpr 199,- US$ (whitout painting). And this is verry cheep! Are they good?

Danix

I've got the KBDD in mine with a driveshaft loop that ties in the 2 subframe connectors. It made a BIG difference with my WS6. That was the first mod I did to mine. Also any good muffler shop should be able to weld them in with no problem. Just my 2 cents.
Val

I have Edelbrock tubular subframe connectors installed, along with an Edelbrock strut tower double brace, and the handling as well as linear traction has vastly improved.

You revived this thread after over 4 1/2 years.

Ben

I could not find any other relevant thread other than making one myself.. There was another one by Lus1fer...much older though.