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JackZ28
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 8:58 am |
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Joined: Mon May 28, 2001 6:03 pm Posts: 8686 Location: Houston, TX
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If you plan to keep the headers on there, just get the cats welded on. Mine are welded on, and I don't have any leaks, except for a very minor one where the y-pipe connects to the pipe that goes over the axle. That is the only place where mine isn't welded... Make sure all the connections are securely fastened.
BTW, how much did you pay to have them installed??
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hocheehoba
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Post subject: cost Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 10:17 am |
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:57 am Posts: 118 Location: Friedberg, Germany
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I think I am going to have all of it welded....... and I need to find a way to secure it better to the car so it doesnt rattle as much. I ended up paying 1200 EURO to have the headers put on, my A-arms installed and the KB SFC painted and welded on.
_________________ FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.
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SRZ
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Oct 13, 2003 2:42 pm |
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Joined: Sun May 27, 2001 3:42 pm Posts: 3430 Location: FL
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Hoocheba, man get underneathe that car on a lift and find where it's banging! DON"T weld your cats. That's a waste of money if you do. I've got FLP's and my car is slammed below 2" all around and I catch nothing if I negotiate the car right. Simple fix to your exhaust leak take the cats off and put a thing coat of rtv on both ends. Once you break those headers in they adhere to shape and the leaks will dissappear.
More than likely you are bangin up against your crossmember at the y-pipe area. That's a common flaw w/ these headers that's old news. Get you some header wrao and heater hose and put in between the member and exhaust and no more banging. Too easy to fix. You may have to move your clamps at a different angle too so you don't catch the screw. I did this and broke a clamp last yr. FLP sells longer studs so you don't have to have he-strength closing the clamp. Position the screw horizontal w/ the undercarriage and your done.
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JackZ28
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Oct 14, 2003 8:30 am |
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Joined: Mon May 28, 2001 6:03 pm Posts: 8686 Location: Houston, TX
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hocheehoba
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Post subject: FLP Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 7:28 am |
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:57 am Posts: 118 Location: Friedberg, Germany
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ZBLKHELLRZR,
Yes it hits sometimes, usually when I dont see the change in road elevation (usually on speed bumps or curbs that suddenly drop off). About the leak and the change you recommended. Maybe we could meet sometime in NOV. Then I could see what you are talking about. I live in Friedberg, to Ramstein is only two hours away. Let me know. 01753730198
_________________ FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.
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SRZ
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 8:09 am |
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Joined: Sun May 27, 2001 3:42 pm Posts: 3430 Location: FL
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Looking at your mod thread I we have the same DS loop by LG. Once you look underneath your car you'll see the intermediate exhaust pipe laying on the bottom of the loop ie, cross member aka tunnel brace. That gap in between the brace and exhaust pipe will flex under load and that's the banging you hear. Local junk yard has radiator hoses by the truck loads.....grab one and cut it 2 to 3" in length. Place that between the exhaust and brace and zip tie it to the brace. Viola the banging is gone. Other possible places are the clamps themselves. Meaning there is a slight gap between the collector clamps for the cats/off road pipe and the floor board. I sandwich hose there as well because mine flex everywhere. You'll see what I'm talking about once you look. May not look like much of a gap but once under load and the engine twist on the motor mounts it becomes alot. Nothing a little crow bar and the hose won't fix. Best way is to leave the cats on and pry down that way. Or you can be anal like myself and take the clamps off along w/ the cats, then screw the hose to the floor board w/ header wrap then reinstall everything. If I go by the shop I'll shoot some pics if you are still confused.
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hocheehoba
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Post subject: Confused? Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 5:04 pm |
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:57 am Posts: 118 Location: Friedberg, Germany
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Confused? Let me clarify one thing…. I pay someone to change my oil. That should be pretty self-explanatory. 
_________________ FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.
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RobH
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2003 2:16 am |
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Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 2:48 am Posts: 399 Location: Lawton, Ok
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Maybe I can help.
At first glance from the front of the car, everything looks in order.
From the back it is starting to look alittle more crowded, but still looks like a good fit with no obvious issues
Here is your first problem. Notice how mine sits right up against the torque arm (the black bar) and on the cross brace/DS Loop (red). Mine is a BMR DS Loop, but should be similiar to the LG one.
Another possible problem area is on the passenger side. There is some heat shielding that could contribute to a nasty vibe. Easily bendable, and the problem is gone
Mine never bounced off the floor board, so I didnt have to address that, but for the torque arm/brace, alittle spark plug heat shielding cut to fit and wedged between the metal items ceased any and all vibes.
Cheers
Rob
_________________ http://www.neverliftchassis.com
http://www.racelens.com
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sven
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Post subject: Re: Confused? Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 3:39 pm |
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Joined: Mon May 13, 2002 2:37 pm Posts: 612 Location: Renton, Washington, United States
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hocheehoba wrote: Confused? Let me clarify one thing…. I pay someone to change my oil. That should be pretty self-explanatory. 
Hey, you are not the only one....even though I have changed the oil myself before....
_________________ 1999 GM LS-1 T/A
2005 Suzuki GSX-R 1000
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LuS1fer
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Oct 26, 2003 10:31 pm |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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Is that the underside of a car? I've seen restaurants dirtier than that! 
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