F-Body Europe

the vibration in 5th is not something I would associate with a torque arm. When you go over a bump and it sounds like you went over a BUMP then you should re-adjust your pinion angle down. A vibration is from a rotating mass (my idea anyway), like say a unbalanced DS or weights that fell off a wheel.....

If you put the torque arm on correctly, and got all (7 bolts?) tight under the left rear seat, put some grease in the little rubber thingy thats about it.

Yep, 7 bolts. They are all tight. I did a little more drilling to make my hole in the trans crossmember a little larger, so I could get a socket in properly. It took a little more tightening. Everything is greased.
The instructions said that if the pinion angle was off, it would cause vibration. Does the car need to be level or can I do it with the rear-end on ramps? I may do a little more adjusting on it tomorrow. This didn't start till I did this torque arm! That's why I am assuming it's something to do with it.

OK, here's a question. If a tire is a little out of balance, would I notice it more and cause more vibration with this TA? I noticed there was a little vibration when I had the new tires put on, but thought it was just the wider tires.

shouldnt matter if the car is level, your only turning two nuts about 5 threads to control up/down. I did mine on jackstands.

I guess its possible the vibration would be pronounced, cuz your now using the cars body to control the rear axle.

I meant when measuring the angle.
This thing is a pain to adjust. You have to unbolt the bracket from the rear-end and then unbolt the arm from the bracket. It has 2 sphericel bushings. These are threaded into the arm and have a jamb nut. So you turn the how bushing a turn or 2. Then you have to reconnect.
I am starting to think it might be something with the tires. I am pretty close to where the pinion should be, there shouldn't be this much vibration now. I will go somewhere tomorrow and have them rebalanced.
Any good suggestion where to go in the Spang area?

why dont you just put the rear on stands, jack up the rear axle at the pumpkin to take the pressure off, then adjust the 2 nuts?

I have to put it on stands to get the diff low enogh the long bolts out that hold the bracket to the diff. This thing is not adjustable while hooked up to the rear-end, or not that I have worked out. The only way to get the rod ends to turn are from removing it from the mount bracket. And the only way to get enough clearance to do that is remove the arm from the bracket. Bad design.
I have been given a couple ideas. One is set the angle to near 0. I guess someone else had this type problem and GW told them to do it and it worked. Other is cut 3/8" off front shaft. This helps stop some vibration and it bottoming out on grease fitting.
I will try it.