F-Body Europe

For front brake rotors who makes the best ? They'll be used for high speed autobahn driving, auto-x, and other places in which HEAVY BRAKING will be required. My Eradispeed Rotors (only 8 months old)already have heat stress cracks around all the drilled holes. I need to be able to retain the stock size of the rotor and use the existing calipers.
Thanks for help in advance
Val

Don't know which ones are the best but to help eliminate cracks next time go solid only or just slotted. Make some sort of brake ducting too. I've done some extreme braking since being over here and mine show no signs of stress cracks. I've got the earlier vs of their rotors so I don't know if that's a factor or not.

Hey Val
Let me take a look at them before you blow some money. Some stress fractures are normal . It all depends on the severity and where it is leading too.

Talked to Lou Gigliotti at LG Motorsports 2 nights ago about this problem. He wanted to sell me the new G-Stop kit and was going to give me a really good deal. He said that I need to go with just sloted rotors. I also asked about brake ducts and he said that for autobahn driving I don't really need it, but for the auto-x and the rings I would really benifit from it. I'm still tossing around the G-Stop kit, what do you all think???
Val

Yeah that's true what he says about the abahn. I block mine off in normal driving so that's nothing to worry about for me. Sounds like you have the hookup w/ Lou. If you can get a deal why not. It's only gonna improve the car being alot safer.

Do you have a picture of your ducts? What do you use to block them off??I've been trying to find some place to purchase the pieces and do it all myself. I found one place that has the whole kit for $200. Kinda of exspensive when the ducts are $15 apiece and hose is around $70 for 11 ft. Then gotta find the clamps and so on. Do you know if the slotted only rotors perform as well as cross drilled and slotted??
Val

Val

Your pad compound is the biggest factor when it comes to braking rather than slotted vs drilled vs solid. Now for your rotor there has to be enough material to be a good heat sink yet be able to dissipate heat through the cooling vanes . Basically it comes down to metallurgy , cooling vane design and the size of the rotor.
I have been through the pains of of my bandaided stock braking system. Every time I improved on something , It was good for a little while . Then my drivingskills would improve on the track and the next weak link would give out.

Most rotor problems are from thermal shock , either heating up to fast or cooling down too fast. That abahn stop from 150 to zero and sitting in the Stau is one example of thermal shock and the other is hot brakes and water .

Hope this cleared the water a little. But i always Thank myself that I donot have a 97 or older fbody, now them are some scary brakes .

after you posted I went and checked mine I have slight cracks also. I plan to call Bear to figure it out there is a wauranty on them 2 yrs.

Hawk,
Please let me know what they tell you. All I've been able to find says just against warping.
Roy,
I get on the brakes hard and usually at the last minute. I guess I'll either have to change my driving style or continue to replace the braking components more often. Do you think brake ducts would help some of the thermal shock as far as the high speed stops.
Val

Won't do a thing for thermal shock . Dedicated warming up and cooling down time of the brakes is the key.

Well, just a thought, but you might want to try EBC rotors and pads. The rotors are slotted and dimpled instead of drilled. I am using them and they work great. When I hit the brakes, its like trhowing out an anchor! Here is where I bought mine: http://www.quicktimeperformance.com/ Tell Barry that Larry Ratliff sent ya

Val I'll take some pics and post 'em or shoot em to ya tonight. Mine came w/ block of chalks. But you'll see what I'm talking about when I show you. Bought mine off a guy who had them made for him this past yr. The ducts almost look like Z28 exhaust tips only bigger. My old duct kit was junk so I just trashed it a couple of days ago....the hoses anyways. It isn't cheap buying the ducting either. I had 15 ft to play w/ and I routed it differently this time. You can get a glimpse of it here.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/40511381/40512758fsaNaV
http://community.webshots.com/photo/40511381/51620442EpmAHq
It's no the best pic but you can see it's not smoother ducting but ribbed.
You'll definetly have to change you driving style if you are gettin on the brakes at the last minute. I've been on the same pads for 4 yrs and I kid you not they don't have no wear on them. Still have the same amount of pad left since the day I bought them. Kinda freaks me out because most folks go through pads in 2 yrs or less.

I've been on the same pads for 4 yrs and I kid you not they don't have no wear on them. Still have the same amount of pad left since the day I bought them. Kinda freaks me out because most folks go through pads in 2 yrs or less.[/quote]
What pads are you using? I'm lucky if I get 7k miles on mine. I have slotted rotors but that shouldn't make that much of a difference.

SSZ28,
I'm running the Hawk HPS pads at all 4 cornors. I e-mailed Baer yesterday so I interested to see what they say.
RTZSS,
Do the EBC rotors have curved vanes? I went to the link you posted and looked like a pretty good price. Have you run any other pads besides the Green stuff??
I'll post the reply from Baer as soon as I get it.

I running Carbon Metallic pads. Nothing special. But for this season I'll run the Hawk hp+ at least out on the track. If I get around to it I'll take some pics of my current pads. There rears are a little under 1/2 worn so I'm sure I've got another 2 yrs left on.

I don't brake hard unless I absolutely have to, more or less brake gradual and I'm always looking a 1/2 mile down the road too.

Here are those pics Val.
http://community.webshots.com/photo/40511381/65337245iglsVA
http://community.webshots.com/photo/40511381/65337270VIbhby
http://community.webshots.com/photo/40511381/65337318Tndahy

They say things happen in 3s . Well I think the 3rd thing finally came my way. 1st) Find brake rotors cracking , 2nd) Find out that in order to fit the new fuel rail covers, it'll take alot of extra work , 3rd) Found a LONG screw sticking out of the the water channel of the left front BFG G-force KDW(only has 4000 miles on it) . I can get another from Summit Racing for $183and pray that it gets here by 15 MAR.
While searching to find someone who might sell them cheaper I found the KDW2 which is what I originally wanted instead of what I bought. On a good note Household 6 did release more funds for the G-Stop brake upgrade

Well that's good news about the funds! Hopefully you'll be up by your projected date too! Got any pics of those tires? Been curious as to what they look like. How do you like them? I'm still favorable to sz50's for the fact they have rim guards. Been known to hit a curb from time to time and they hold true and keep my rims lookin purty.

Heck, them pics look like the brake cooling can take care of some heavy duty braking ... (but only if the car is moving afterwards)

ZBLKHELLRZR
The KDWs have rim guards too. The tread pattern is the same as the KDs but the channels are wider for water. They stick like glue and give great traction in both wet & dry . The KDW2s have an awesome tread pattern. I just have to figure out how to post it . Your car has the G-2 wheels on it (painted black) right? How do you like them?? Due to the offset do they stick out more than the stock factory rims?
Val

They have the perfect offset. 44mm. I love them so much I want another set but not powder coated this time just the original satin finish.
I hope you can post a pic or shoot me a email @john.silas@ramstein.af.mil