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hocheehoba
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Post subject: Fan Belts Too Loud??? Posted: Sun Jul 06, 2003 5:03 pm |
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:57 am Posts: 118 Location: Friedberg, Germany
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Maybe its just me, but it seems that my fan belts are awfully loud. Is that normal with F-Bodies? Its like, the more I step on the gas, the louder they get. Its not a screaching sound like when they are bad... just simply loud. Is there a way to make them quiet?
_________________ FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.
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LuS1fer
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2003 9:15 am |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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It depends what you mean by loud. This may sound weird but the guys at the local Jag dealer spray WD40 onto the belts to keep them in good condition. I've tried it with no deleterious effects but I can't recall if they got quieter. You'd think they'd slip but they don't.
However, I have various noises emanating from the various pulleys which I've never cured.
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hocheehoba
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Post subject: loud Posted: Tue Jul 08, 2003 6:40 pm |
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:57 am Posts: 118 Location: Friedberg, Germany
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It’s not loud like a screeching sound. It’s more like the components are loud. Like they have sand in them and are making noises. Maybe I just think the big V8 should be a little quieter. Maybe I am wacked!!!
_________________ FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.
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LuS1fer
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2003 7:51 am |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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No, the growling and churning noises are normal. Mine has so many weird noises, I couldn't begin to separate them.
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SSZ28
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2003 2:39 pm |
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Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2003 11:17 pm Posts: 1082 Location: Giebelstadt
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hocheehoba
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Post subject: Huh? Posted: Wed Jul 09, 2003 10:04 pm |
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:57 am Posts: 118 Location: Friedberg, Germany
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What is a long tube and a cut out? And where do I get them?
_________________ FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.
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LuS1fer
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2003 8:24 am |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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They are headers and an exhaust cut-out to remove any silencing. What he means is that the noise of your belts will be drowned out by the incendiary roar of the unbridled LS1.
Have a look at this site - http://www.prolong-uk.com - I'm going to try the engine treatment. This is a "super-oil" and not an additive. I'm going to try to feed some onto the various pulleys and see if it quietens them down.
By the way, this company also do a product called Waterless Wash'n'Shine. It's a phenomenal trigger spray polish that leaves a fantastic shine and no static so there's no dust on the car even after you've left it for a while. Terrific stuff, brilliant for shows but not on the above site though. Also, you can polish a black car in baking heat from front to back with absolute ease and no smears or streaks. Straight on. straight off.
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SSZ28
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2003 2:59 pm |
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Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2003 11:17 pm Posts: 1082 Location: Giebelstadt
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Seriously, as far as quieting belts, do not use petroleum (oil) based products as this can cause the belts to break down over time. For the older V-type belts, rub some soap (Ivory) or use a toothpaste similar to plain Colgate. The plain soap will prvent some of the squeal and the toothpaste will help prevent the belt from slipping. I mentioned Colgate because it has a slightly gritty texture and is not a gel. My belt does squeal a bit when grabing 2nd gear, but I just live with it. It's not bad enough to cause premature wear, yet...
_________________ 1996 SS-Z28
1957 Chevy P/U project
2000 Dakota
http://members.cardomain.com/dumaisk
http://community.webshots.com/album/113580439DwJndn/0
Yes, I'm a caraholic.
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hocheehoba
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Post subject: treatment Posted: Thu Jul 10, 2003 6:13 pm |
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:57 am Posts: 118 Location: Friedberg, Germany
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I remember reading in the owners manual not to use any fuel treatments. Are they wrong? I dont remember anything about an oil treatment. What does that do? I use 10W30 Synthetic Oil, and I change the oil every 2000 miles. Yes, thats right, 2000 miles. She has the cleanest oil on the autobahn.
_________________ FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.
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SSZ28
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2003 12:46 am |
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Joined: Mon Feb 24, 2003 11:17 pm Posts: 1082 Location: Giebelstadt
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LuS1fer
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2003 8:03 am |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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Fuel treatments do not set off your check engine light. I've used them periodically to keep the injectors clean and have used octane booster too. The computer is only concerned with getting the ratio of air:fuel correct and setting the timing so it doesn't knock. It even allows this as the owner's manual says that light pinging is normal - well, not on mine it isn't!
As for changing synthetic oil every 2000 miles, well, that's just plain wasteful and priobably doesn't do the environment much good. Have a look at http://www.prolong-uk.com for the testimonials so far as the engine treatment is concerned. Supposedly gives increased fuel economy as well due to less friction which must, therefore, have potential for more performance.
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hocheehoba
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Post subject: Clean Posted: Fri Jul 11, 2003 7:23 pm |
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Joined: Sun May 25, 2003 10:57 am Posts: 118 Location: Friedberg, Germany
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My Grandfather is retired Navy Chief Mechanic, and he told me the three best things you can ever do for an engine (of any kind) is to have clean filters, clean high octane fuel, and clean oil. Thats what I give my car. She is worth it to me.
_________________ FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.
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RobH
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Post subject: Posted: Sat Jul 12, 2003 5:33 pm |
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Senior Member |
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Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 2:48 am Posts: 399 Location: Lawton, Ok
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just a couple of words.
Royal purple or Redline. Everywhere.
Evaluate your driving style. If you putt it down the road stop and go, or if you balls to the walls it like it was made to do. 3k changes will be fine.
as far as the belts and ancillerary noise goes, you have a chevy, it happens. And if you have a pontiac, then you have a Chevy  it happens.
just a side note: The cut out sounds kewl, but you have less power than the guy next to you with mufflers. Food for thought if your about getting the most. Long tubes make good power also, but on a stock head/intake car then you just have bragging rights over the guy next to you with the 1 5/8/1 3/4 shorties. He has more torque, and same hp.
_________________ http://www.neverliftchassis.com
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