F-Body Europe


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 Post subject: The 'ol NO2 ?
PostPosted: Tue Aug 14, 2001 6:22 pm 
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Jr.

IMHO any kit, be it NOS, NX, Nitrous works, TNT, Compucar...
is going to be a good product.

Personally I liked the NX kit because of all the good feed back I read from real world owners, and I also wanted a Wet kit because I didnt like the idea of stressing my fuel injectors by using the dry system.

Wet systems are prone to intake backfires. This is caused mainly because the person who installed it put the nozzle to far away from the Intake, the fuel will puddle as a result, one spark, and Whabaam no more T-body/Intake/bellows or smooth lines on your hood.

A dry kit is prone to leaning out. Not enough fuel with the NO2, engine leans out, much mayhem ensues. Once again the Whabaam theory, but this time its pistons and rods.

The key is to start low (50hp) and not get greedy with the 150hp jets!! Get all the safety equipment you can...micro switch, hobbs switch, window switch, pressure gauge, heater, purge, NO2 filter(s), colder non platinum plugs gapped at .30-.35, and no less than 93 octane.

Just whatever you do, do not get greedy. It is just to easy to swap the 50/75/100 hp jets out with a 150-175-200 set. That is what makes most juicers into pedestrians.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2001 6:04 am 
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It almsot sounds like I'll blow up my car... he he he! Now the wet kit is where the nozzles are located in the T-Body?? Or am I thinking of the dry lit.. and the wet kit is where the nozzles are put where the injectors are? I was only thinking of a small kit anyways (only going to up to about 100 hp)......

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2002 Camaro SS with T-Tops and 6spd.


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 Post subject: That is what they all say...............
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2001 9:33 am 
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Quote:
I was only thinking of a small kit anyways (only going to up to about 100 hp)......


Sure................

Check this out:http://cgi.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=594053262

I am telling you ebay is the way to go.....


Last edited by 99taws6 on Wed Aug 15, 2001 9:42 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2001 9:49 am 
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I know I don't believe myself either..... Thanks for the web address I'll have to check it at home I can't look at E-BAY while at work.....

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2002 Camaro SS with T-Tops and 6spd.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2001 9:53 am 
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Let me hook you up.....


Image

It is at $490 with the reserve not met. The kit is brand new and has a buy now feature of $709.


Last edited by 99taws6 on Wed Aug 15, 2001 9:54 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2001 10:09 am 
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Holy Barnacales BATMAN!!!!! I think I may have found a winner... I just have to look at it on E-Bay.... But it looks mighty good! Thanks George! Dave might want to see this as well.... I'll let him know.

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2002 Camaro SS with T-Tops and 6spd.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2001 11:29 am 
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Looks like a good package. I'm checking a few other routes.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2001 12:00 pm 
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Dave let me know what you find.... :-roll:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2001 1:13 pm 
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The picture and article the person used from E-bay, is from a Popular Hot Rod or Hot Rod magazine article. That is NOS's dry kit ($700 +/-).

Jr just remember that a wet kit injects fuel and NO2, and a dry just injects NO2. Doesnt matter how it gets in the intake (bar/plate/shark nozzle). A direct port is drilled directly through the manifold into each cylinder (solves the problem of the cylinders farther away from the T body getting less or incorrect mixtures).

If you are going to run 100hp or more, and want to be reliable, just go ahead and add about $200-300 in safety items (double that if you want to be really safe) to any kit. And hooking these things up is a electical nightmare. Doesnt take alot of brain power, but there will be wires running everywhere.

My rule for NO2 is I dont want to rely on it to remain competitive, because when the bottles empty I'm just another car. I want NO2 to be the salt I rub into a open wound, just piling insult on top of injury.

FWIW I will be releasing some pretty good NO2 sites as soon as I get them all organized.


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PostPosted: Wed Aug 15, 2001 3:09 pm 
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Yep. The package from IRS is $899. Has A LOT of safety things included (window switch, purge kit, no2 preasure guage, etc). I'm trying to get some prices from Musclecar Technologies. They say their prices are soo low, they can't post prices on the net.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 16, 2001 12:25 am 
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Keep adding to the 899. Your gonna need a bottle heater unless you are gonna use a heating pad, and would be wise to add some type of spark retard (hehehe, he said retard) device. Either in the PCM or thru a aftermarket ignition like the Digital 6 MSD, also, even if the wet kit doesnt stress the injectors, you are still asking your pump to do more. Think about a inline fuel pump. After that, do you really want to have to get out of the car to turn the gas on and off? Gonna need a bottle opener.


This is by far the cheapest way to add real power, but it can quickly become the most expensive way if you try to go cheap.

I thought the terminator kit was the best out at the time, and still think it is a really well rounded system. I dont agree with the shark nozzle thing and would much rather have a plate between the tbody and intake.


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PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2001 2:43 pm 
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According to IRS it comes with the bottle heater. As far as the opener, it's not that hard to do myself (as laziness and more $$$ come that will change). The extra fuel pump sounds good, but what's the difference in cost between that and the fuel preasure regulator?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 17, 2001 6:07 pm 
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The AFPR is peanuts(compared to system cost). I have a accel with gauge and it was like $40-50. A decent inline like MSD 155lph which is good up to 500hp is under 100.

I've no idea where your installing your bottle, so your right. Maybe that is a wasted expense.

my bad on the heater. it does have it, (I lost my mind for alittle bit)

you may want to start searching for more braided line, and copper tubing also, because they are stingy with that stuff. And if you are going to run a fuel pressure gauge, you will need to source a T fitting so you can hook one up. And lastly, unless you dont want to know what your nos pressure is when your driving, you will need another pressure gauge. The one it comes with hooks to the bottle, so you wont see it. (unless you are mounting it in the passengers seat :) )


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Aug 19, 2001 3:37 pm 
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Ah yes, verry good. I was thinking of mounting it on the drivers side in the hatch. Or maybe with the spare but probably not. I wasn't sure where the nos guage would be mounted. We should have this thing going within the next month. I'll take some leave and do the whole thing at one time. Including the cam and valvetrain.

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