F-Body Europe

Just thinking up ???'s, ya know, prepare for the worst, but hope for the best.

Would it be possible to install a cam 180deg out if you replaced:

1. Cam
2. Timing chain and sprockets
3. Heads
4. pushrods
5. lifters
6. timing cover

if so, how? The crank turns once to the cams twice, so TDC would be the same on a exhaust stroke as a compression stroke as far as the crank was concerned.

BTW I did mark the TDC marks, but nothing exist except the block to prove I did.

........back to reality
I have one more stumbling block, I have to get the reluctor ring machined .030 because I'm using a fluidamper balancer and a cloyes timing chain. (problems, problems, problems)
BTW I have the option (limited because of the cloyes) of advanceing or retarding the cam. Is this something I should screw with or not?

other than that, I've gone the extra mile in cleaning the old gaskets off. The front and top of the block is a mirror finish now, add RTV and gaskets, and I shouldn't have any leaks.

I also have a choice, cuz I have both the LT4 head gaskets, and the Imps gaskets. Should I go with 10.8 or 11.2 compression? My PCM is programed for a 10.8.

Just wanted to rant, cuz this b$tch is about to fire. I've done my research around town, and nobody with a F-body has anything that will stand a chance if this works the way its supposed too, so I want to cover my bases.

Peace; out
Rob

Exactly, the cam cannot be off 180 off because the cam turns 2 times for every 1 turn of the crank. So, the cam will be at the same position when the #1 piston (or any piston really) is at the top of compression stroke or the top of the exhaust stroke.

I really wouldn't bother retarding or advancing the cam right now. If you are really serious about it, the best way to find out the benefits would be to plug the specs into desktop dyno or something similiar.

Definately go with the impala gaskets. 11.2 is still fine to run 92 / 93 octane gas. On a stock mill, each point increase gain about 1-2 HP and 2-3 Ft Lbs and the gains increase on a modified engine.

Lemmee know how everything works out!!!

Rob if you are not privy to a Desk top dyno program. A simple way is to retard the cam in 2 deg increments and take a compression reading and then advance the cam in two degree increments from the cam timing marks . In doing this you map your engine for its highest and lowest compression readings . At this point you can tune your cam in . It helps to have a spot on timing curve, or beable to program it your self because. Now you are ready to do some timed speed runs over a set distance in a gear that will cover your usable rpm range. I prefer an uphill climb to put a load on an engine. But use the same area and same direction every time. From the data you collect from this and from advancing and retarding the camshaft, you can then get it dialed in the way you want.
Caution though a lot of cams are ground with up to 4 degrees of advance already.
One last note
Advancing a cam to a certain extent increase low to mid range and retarding increases the mid to high.
Agood piece of equipment is a video camera set up to shoot your instrument so that in play back mode you can time rpm playback.
Let me stop for now.
and to answer your first ? As long as the TDC damper lines up with the mark on the block and number one cyl is TDC in the hole then you will be spot on.

Oh yeah...I guess not everyone has access to DD. Rob, if you need some info on the program, shoot me an e-mail and I can hook you up.

Wow!!! Roy, I think my head is gonna explode

I think I'm gonna default the cam retard/advance thing.

And as far as TDC, None of the valve train will be reused, so I have no reference marks to line up. That is why I started thinking that no matter how I got the #1 to TDC it would be okay, cuz TDC to the piston or crank is the same for either exhaust or compression.

Thanks again for the schooling, and Jamey I just may be hitting you up for DD data.