F-Body Europe

im going to the trackin about 2 weeks I was wondering about what is the best time peaple got out of there stock lt1 camaro

Hmm, well I don't know the exact number to that but I will guess you will run around 14.0 or so. But keep in mind that you arn't going to have the same traction you would on a real track and you will be racing up a slight increase. But other than that, the times are pretty acurate.

Howie

Hi , my best ET in Bitburg was a 14.872 ( Reaction 0.630 , stock 1995 LT1 engine ).
Jens.

11.7@ 123MPH However it has a couple upgrades and it is a LS?

Uhhh, just a couple, huh Bruce?
LOL.

also with the elevation your car should run between 2/10-3/10 quicker at sea level.

... but how comes all "professional" racers say that traction there is better than anywhere else? (in europe)
Even better than i.e. Hockenheim and lots better than
Drachten (where they could not drive without that nasty
glue)
and talking to the pilots they say the same,
but they also told me that we would ruin the traction if
we race the other direction.

but I do not know about this, just what I was told.

Okay, I was not specific but I meant compared to the tracks in the States. They use a different compound on the pavement. Thats all I meant. I have no idea how the other tracks are around here cause i have only beento Bitburg.
Howie

Bitburg is slippery. But way better than Sembach. I only managed a 2.1 60ft. I hook better on the street. Why? I dont know maybe cause the ground is a little loose, but thats a guess. I have gotten a 1.8 in the states with less suspension mods. But its still fun though.

I never drove on a track in the states myself,
I was just watching, so I can not tell.
Can you get me the exactly pavement compound I would need
- let's say if I want to build a new track for myself?

Its called, VHT

Summit racing carries it,

Bitburg is better than sembach Bitburg is about the same as Dracten as far as traction but Dracten will get you better times because elevation.

I do not mean the 'trackbite' stuff, or whatever you wanna call it.
I am talking about the 'compound of pavement'.
Like take a piece of gras land and build a new track.

My friend's '95 LT1 TA with A4/2.73's is stock except for a freeflow exhaust from the cat back. He ran 14.4 at something like 95 or 97. A Firehawk LT1 with M5 ran 15's and we're not sure why. Stock LT1's seem to run around 14.6. I've seen one with an upgraded MAF and a K&N run 14.1. Another LT1 had loads and loads of mods incl. headers and still ran 14.2. My friend has researched the times and read a lot of stuff about his LT1 and figures that even with $2000 worth of upgrades, it won't be as fast as an LS1 (which run 13's as standard)so he's going to change his. But then the LS1 produces a lot more power and not the power they quote. For events, most tracks prep the surface for traction as there's a few mm of rubber. If prepped, you get good grip but if not prepped, it's worse than the road. For public runs, they often don't prep. Your car usually hooks better on the road than at the track partly for this reason. Also tracks with a rubber surface layer respond better to hot slicks creating adhesion to the tyre than to your road tyres which will just slip on the existing rubber.

My friend's '95 LT1 TA with A4/2.73's is stock except for a freeflow exhaust from the cat back. He ran 14.4 at something like 95 or 97. A Firehawk LT1 with M5 ran 15's and we're not sure why. Stock LT1's seem to run around 14.6. I've seen one with an upgraded MAF and a K&N run 14.1. Another LT1 had loads and loads of mods incl. headers and still ran 14.2. My friend has researched the times and read a lot of stuff about his LT1 and figures that even with $2000 worth of upgrades, it won't be as fast as an LS1 (which run 13's as standard)so he's going to change his. But then the LS1 produces a lot more power and not the power they quote. For events, most tracks prep the surface for traction as there's a few mm of rubber. If prepped, you get good grip but if not prepped, it's worse than the road. For public runs, they often don't prep. Your car usually hooks better on the road than at the track partly for this reason. Also tracks with a rubber surface layer respond better to hot slicks creating adhesion to the tyre than to your road tyres which will just slip on the existing rubber.

...so there is no special compound on pavement, and Howie just confused me

So preparing the track or not would be a 'cost and time' thing?
1. Will everybody be willing to pay more for a prepared track?
2. Do you want to take more breaks for prep time?
3. Would it be worth on a track we use every few weeks?

(This is the info which I got before, of interest is the 'Trackspot' stuff also: )

VHT TRACKBITE SP-162 is an exclusive consumer formulation designed to offer controlled traction for competition drag racing. VHT TrackBite is a liquid track treatment, which improves traction by means of adhesion and does not soften tires nor the track surface as other imitation products may. SP-162 is packaged in a one gallon bottle.
VHT TrackBITE CONCENTRATE, SP-163 has been engineered to withstand the torture of commercial drag strip use. Packaged in a 54 gallon drum, this formula is a quick setting liquid surface treatment, specifically designed to withstand the high-temperatures of prolonged exposure to the sun's heat and repeated use of professional and sportsman drag cars. VHT TrackBite Concentrate SP-163 additionally is an excellent sealer for newly ground and/or resurfaced tracks. Used extensively at IHRA and NHRA sanctioned tracks. Will not harm asphalt or concrete surfaces as other imitation products will.
1 Gallon
Product #: SP-162 Price $29.00
54 Gallon
Product #SP-163 Concentrate-Drag Strip Formula
Price *Call for quote

TRACKSPOTâ„¢
Powdered Resin Traction Compound
Aids in traction and the removal of bald-spots from track surfaces

For Bald Spot Removal
Low horsepower cars or cars with narrow tires place their cars in the same place on the starting line repeatedly. After many cars leave the starting line from the same spot, the rubber is removed and bare concrete begins to appear. If no care is taken to put the rubber back on the bald spot, the area will become larger and elapsed times will become slower. VHT TrackSpot is specially formulated to quickly apply rubber to the track surface to reduce bald spots and elapsed times.

Directions:
Apply a light mist of VHT TrackBite to bald spots on the starting line or tracks surface. Sprinkle or dust VHT TrackSpot over VHT TrackBite then dust or blow off excess. Spray a light mist of VHT TrackBite cut 50/50 with methanol. Racetrack is ready to use in three minutes when methanol evaporates. Repeat process as needed.

For Added Traction
Racetracks have known for years that the best traction is created from rubber to rubber contact. The ideal track surface is a film of rubber and VHT TrackBite. When this application is not reasonable, apply a thin film of VHT TrackSpot out 10 to 20 feet, depending on horsepower, in front of the tires. Do a light burnout over the VHT TrackSpot and back the car into the burnout area. Using VHT TrackSpot will dramatically reduce wheel spin and elapsed times.
Product #. SP-169-5
Price *Call for quote

A Firehawk LT1 with M5 ran 15's and we're not sure why.

Prolly could not drive???
I have beaten plenty of cars quicker than mine.
There is no LT1s with a M5.

FWIW all Firehawks have a M6 -Automatics too include 91-92 3rd gen Formula only 98< no TA's. 98> you can get Trans am varient Firehawk.

Well done Hawk, you spotted my deliberate mistake. Shame on the rest of you. He he.

This car was a metallic green Firehawk with a Formula nose. You're probably right about him not being able to drive. My friend beat a Viper in his C4 Corvette when the Viper missed the 2-3 shift. The Viper could cream his Vette any day of the week but unless you do it in that quarter mile, it doesn't matter, it's just who crosses the line first.

That is so true but it sure is alot of fun beating faster cars.