F-Body Europe

I had decided to go back to stock on my MAF, because I had a suspicion that this was contributing to my rich condition. Well, after calling all the bone yards, I couldnt find a replacement. After I was revived from fainting after I was quoted a price for a new stock MAF, I ordered a GMS MAF. I figured same price, but modded = kewl. I've been discouraged from buying one of these things about 3 times, and I was expecting it to be a real POS.
I have to say, so far I'm very happy. I had a bad flat spot from about 2500-4000rpm, real noticable in 2nd and 3rd, that is gone now, and a couple of WOT runs thru the 1st 3 gears produced no clouds of smoke.
I dont think there is a "22hp" increase (ya right!), but it seems to work for me.
BTW no more stumbling at idle, and throttle tip in is much better. So for all you fools like me, that completely ported your MAF, before you go back to stock, you might want to find someone who has one of these, and give it a try.

i have a problem almost like you did. i cant figure it out. i just installed a crane cam, headers, ignition and a hypertech power module. on top of that i have removed the screens on my MAF.

the problem is that it stumbles at idle and even when i stop at a stop sign. it will go down to 500 rpm then back to 1000rpm really slow. also the car smokes a little at idle.

well i took the hyper/module out and the car ran fine. im not sure what to do now but i might try leaving the chip in and replacing the screens or what. this is frustrating. any suggestions?????

Yours could be several things cuz you did several things, but, first try to figure out when it started, or became most noticable:

1. It sounds like your car needs retuned for the cam (did you install the cam? Is that the only valvetrain part changed?)

2. You burnt, or are burning plug wires on the new headers(open the hood when its dark and look for light show)

3. What "chip" are you taking out

4. Did you just remove the screen or did you port the maf, and remove the plastic dividers also?

If you dont have a scan tool, you should have a 12pin DLC. The farthest 2 top right pins are the A and B pins. Just ground them, and turn your ignition to on. The MIL light should flash pause flash X2 (it will do this 3 times) this is code 12, and lets you know that the diagonostic are working properly, after that if you have any codes, it will display them from lowest to highest (ie code 32 would be flash x3 pause flash x2 long pause) it displays each code 3 times then when its shown all codes it displays code 12 again.

well, it was the Hypertech module that i put in the car and then removed once i had a problem. i did look to see if it was my wires but didnt find any burnt wires of any kind. i have not had my computer calibrated yet for the new cam cause i thought it was'nt big enough for a recalibration. i also don't have a scan-tool. where is that conector your talking about? under the dash? what do you think, get my computer calibrated?

oh yeah, all i did was remove the screens in the MAF. it's not ported.

the data port (ADDL) is right by your right knee when your sitting in the car.

......depending on the cam, you need to get the PCM updated, to make the car run correct, or at the very least get all the benifits from the cam.

Taking the screen out of your maf shouldnt really increase your air CFM enough to screw with the sensor. All you did is add more turbulance (or your not reducing it to be precise) to the air.