F-Body Europe

What was I thinking? If you have a M6 and you dont have 4.10's, you are making a major mistake IMO. Ye Gads, Jeff was the only one that had it right.

I took it fairly easy on it for the first 100 or so miles, but I had to try them out. It doesnt bark 2nd anymore, it will flat burn em' off, and man if you can balance the clutch just right it will haul your ass out the hole like right now!!!

I cant wait to bolt the Nittos on (damn UPS dude, hurry up)

I'm going to the 1/8 real soon, and with this I'm hoping (In my mind I'm closer to 12's than 14's but then there is reality) to run around 8.8-.9 @ 82-85mph.

I'll keep ya posted
Rob

I knew it!! Thats whats going in my car after the T-56 goes in! I had already planned it anyways.

It is definatelly worth it IMO. But be ready, the guy that did mine has done ALOT of F-bodies, even so, my car (94) had 5 cut gears, and the replacement GM gears were 2 cut (whatever that means) so he had to pull it 4 times trying to get the wipe right. The accel and decel patterns are correct, but the off idle cruise has some noise.
I got a long class on it, but basically if you have 2 cut gears you cannot eliminate that because .001 one way or the other throws off the gear way left or right.
Has something to do with the pinion gear being on a set angle, but tolerances in the molding and machineing of the diff case can effect it.
For all of you still believing 4.10's take top speed, IT DOES NOT. 80-85mph in 6th is 2k rpm (about 500 higher than with the 3.42's).
Cya, I'm going hunting
Rob

You guys are making me want to go with the 4:10 I was thinking about 3:73 but I might have to go all the way with it.

Well, if you're staying over here for a while, I wouldn't go with 4.10s, but you'd be good with 3.73s!!!

where you are? I'm not being an ass, but everyone is so hung up on 4.10's being bad at speed. You are talking about a addition of 500rpm. If you burn em' up, its because of the install not the gear. IMO.

I think it may even be easier on the equipment, because top speed would be in 6th not in 5th, so less RPM. Its not like any of us have the HP to redline our cars in 6th anyway.

The danger I see, is you will lower the critical speed of your drive shaft. If you have the stock shaft you are already pushing the envelope everytime you go 150mph and have 3.42's, with 4.10's your DS could break and pole vault you down the autobahn. Thats why I put in the DS loop and aluminum DS many moons ago.

...the preceding was not endorsed by any gear installer or responsible person, the views expressed here are not....

Rob

I know that 4:10 over here isn't the best idea. The thing is I really don't drive it that much I have a beater that I use. I want to get the car setup to the point so when I go home I'm track ready all the way. I will however probably go with the 3:73 for now and change them out later.

Well, SORRRRRYYYYYY, just posting my viewpoint!!

..Sorry Jack, but if we all agreed on everything, there would only be one post in each subject, and a very boring forum...

Seriously though, I would be interested in the gear ratio that Porshe, Lambo, M3/5 have. I'm probably way off base, (and in a better position/location if they do melt down. But it seems to me that if I was spinning 1:1 or 5:1, given that the gears were hardened properly, set up properly, and broke in properly, the only differance in the two would be the speed the ring gear turned. I dont have any experiance to prove this, and everyone has their own acceptable risks, but to me this makes sense.

my .02

The higher numerical gear number you have the more prone it is to overheat unless you have a rearend cooler . Plus the higher the numerical number the weaker the gear. That is one ofthe reasons BMW and Mercedes use gear ratios between 2.75 and 3.15 in their performance sedans, Now their are some exceptons to this and that is the first gen M3 and M5
both of these were sporting cogs in the 3.90 and above range.
The death of any rear end is if it is properly setup is temperture. Second is wear .
But you can't knock the torque multiplication of set of 4.10 's.

I was hoping you, or Jamey, or some other smart person would chime in, and enlighten me. I wasnt sure if the what the Germans chose for gearing. I know the Japenese cars use high 3 to low 4 :1 gearing to trick you into thinking it has more torque than it does.
BTW the 4.10 gear you buy from GM is from the S10, I know they dont run 135+ that often, but they arent spread out all over the road broke down either.

Okay, now I'm going to find another dead horse to beat.
Rob

Hey man that was a good point you made about the 3:73 I just hate to buy the same things twice. I know I'll loose top speed but for the few times I drive the car I can live with it.

Jack: good info on the star clutch I called them up yesterday and got the prices the stage three clutch is selling for $529.00 it's rated up to 850hp anything higher than that the guy said is not streetable. I'm going to go with the stage three so when I rebuild the engine I don't have to worry about it.

Good call, Ryan, I've heard nothing but good things about their clutches, and the stage III is the most popular. Good luck!

The guy on the phone told me that GM High Tech liked there clutch so much they dropped Center Force from there magazine. He also told me the clutch has no slip to it as long as you have less than the horsepower rating. A stage 3 850hp you can't beat that No slip. He also said people who run stock clutches will notice a big difference in the quarter mile times. So definatly good call on that one. Best for the buck.

That is awesome!