F-Body Europe

Dude, if I change my mind before we hook up, please don't hate me. I just don't know if I want to sell it, now that I'm going TDY to France for a month.

Jack,
I understand, TDY money always seems to help the car parts out Keep me informed, if you keep it then I'll buy the headers I want, if you sell it to me I'll just buy the headers later. Let me know as I have the $$$$ for it

Hey the cook and the army guy built a complete Z in a small german garage. What's have you done lately besides a spoiler and hood. J/k all in fun.

Jack when I dropped in the new motor in it was a little more than the rearend could handle since it was the oldest part of the car. The Pinion gears teeth completly folded over and the ring gear was missing 1" gaps all the way around. The bearings got pretty much screwed because of the metal shavings but the posi unit was still intact with a few nicks here and there. I bought a rearend rebuild kit from thunder racing wich had all of the shims, inner and outer wheel barings, pinion bearings and (?the housing unit bearing sleeves and crush sleeve for the pinion gear). After the opel dealer screwed up the 4:10s I picked up a new set of 3:42 from the states and installed them on (my posi unit). The shims were the stock ones wich came in the car and they worked beutiful for the gears tolerance. As long as you stay with the same size gear you should be good since there is a little bit of tolerance you can play with. I havn't had any problems out of mine and I put the pedal down a whole bunch before I left germany, it's just like new. If you need any help let me know I can go to the local salvadge yard and pick you up a ring and pinion out of a Z or TA your year for about $30 bucks and send them to you (thats how I did mine). I also have access to tbrne since it's right down the road. Let me know man I'm more than happy to help you out.

John I'm having a hell of a time getting on my e-mail and it this computer should be fixed tonight so I'll e-mail you later. take care.

Tbyrne is right down the road?

Jack, in one of the new Chevy magazines, I think Super Chevy, there is an article about how to build a 10 bolt that will live. It mentions the article on the cover. Don't know if that would help you.

Is it out at the book store right now? Thanks Jerry!

Yup tybrne is about 20min away from where I'm at. I'm actually going to swing by there one of the days this week just to see what they have. My offer still stands if you need a quick and inexpensive fix till you can get a 12 or 9" let me know.

Man take some pics of his shop if he'll let you!

I'll take the pics and if he doesn't like it, That $hit'll buff out he'll be alright. I hope my expectations are not to high on this one. If the shop looks like crap i'll let you know.

I think that is the other 10 bolt that chevy used in cars

I sure don't plan on putting any more power adders on for a while, but with my luck, that newly built rear would last a month or two. This clutch grips like a mofo, and would surely snap the rear if I really got on it, especially with a beefed up driveshaft.

I think you could get away with a rebuild for a least a few yrs. I know mines lasting me and I'm putting at least 400 to the wheels. And Johns is lasting him and he has even more Hp being planted to the pavement than that. I would just fix till you get back stateside and then you can really search around for a 9" or 12 bolt to do the job right and not have to worry about the large shipping fees.

Ryan, what all did you do to your's? I don't want a buy a 9in or a 12 bolt. I just want something more reliabe than mine once I build up the engine.

Yeah, give us exact details. Did you get a new diff, or was your still fine? I know you go the TR kit. It's $399 now, and comes with a TA girdle. Is that the same one you got?