F-Body Europe

I just replaced two more wires in the Z wich now makes 5 total. These damn headers are rediculous. I can't get that number 5-4 wires far enough away from the headers. I think when I get paid I'm going to go over the valve covers this crap is making me want to just put the car away. Oh well just venting about my great $700 purchase, I should have just spent another 500 and got FLPs. Later.

Damn sounds like a LT1 thing , No probs here with SLP headers andwires. Sounds like a subliminal.

LOL! You should stomp on Rob's FLP's while he still has them for sale on the cheap.

Getting ready to buy my Detleq unit as we speak. Put the PCM4less chip in finally. Night and day difference compared to the Ed Wright chip. I got throttle response like you now and you know that chit use to drive me crazy! I can't even roll on the throttle no more and it's all across the pwr band too. No more rich condition either and it idles perfect w/ a little more lope to and deeper. Only problem is the SES light comes on now. I'll do the paperclip trick and see what pops up. I'll call ya today dude since I've got time now.

Hey! I called those FLP's!!

Yeah, plug wires are a bitch. I also burned the #5 wire. Actually the only bad part was having to remove the supercharger to get to the opti. Not hard, just took a while to figure it out. Now since I only changed that one wire I get a misfire code that comes and goes. Especially when its cold or I get on it a lot. I'm running the dynatech lt's which are the same as flp's I think.

So what are the track # on that thing dave.

yeah Dave what are some numbers on that thing .

You want numbers eh??? I'll give you numbers. First let me tell you bone stock suspension. Stock 3.42 rear. I only went once and did 4 runs. Horible times. Best was 13.6. But the trap speeds were decent I guess. It was trapping at about 106-108 mph. R/T = horrible 1.6. First gear useless, nothing but spin. Second almost as bad. Third would hook good and shifting just before the line. Ran her up to about 6000rpms. I'd bet $100 that the supercharger is only puting about 2lbs boost at best with the 6lb pulley.

Its pretty easy to see based on your post that its making all the bacon on the big end. I'm not real familiar with your car, but if I remember your a 383 blower, no? 106-108mph yeah your not getting all the air, but you say your guess is no boost. Why is that, wrong cam, belt slipping (is it atleast a 6 rib belt?).

I know I'm loosing big boost because of my cam (224/230, .560"/.598", 112lsa) but I'm here to tell you brother you know its there. Do you have a dyno tune, or atleast a good baseline mail order tune? You have more there, its just hiding. Dont sweat R/T or the 60', a torque arm car isnt gonna 60 for $hit. But your trap should be in the 112-117mph range.

Keep us posted, and if you have a tunercat file I'd really like to look at it.

The car is a 355 full setup with a powerdyne blower. Now the reason I think it is the blower is because the heads and cam are both blower specific and proven to pull 600+ hp with 12-15 pounds boost. I'll pull you up to speed:
heads: stage II custom port/pollish from combination motorsplorts
cam: 224/236 @114 lsa custom grind. (middle of the road and very street friendly)
Everything on the valvetrain is brand new and matched. You might be right about the belt. I honestly don't know what comes with the powerdyne. I was thinking about bumping the pulley up to the 9psi. But I still have stock injectors with the fmu that need to be ditched and upgraded. Like you say, the power is there.

Oh yeah, I drove up to PA and got an upgrade program from pcmforless. But it didn't really affect anything better, just got rid of the sensor codes from all the better air flow.

You need more air like Rob stated. Put a walbro pump on there a 255lh at least and 36lb injectors minimum. Hopefully they didn't hog out your head because blower setups don't need alot of work on the intake side. How much boost can it support?

I was going to bump up the injectors to probably 42s and get one of those plug and play pumps/harnesses from racetronix. It's just a matter of money. I just moved off base and had to front the first two months and sec deposit. As far as boost, not sure. All forged internals with studded two bolt mains. My gues is around 12 pounds boost.

Thats what I was told. I found a decent deal on #42's from Cmotorsport (although at the time it seemed like every car in the world needed them. Bigger injectors are always on BackOrder unless you go with the 80bux apiece stores.) I also used the T-Rex inline pump but any MSD or the like pump is the same (about 60-80bux). If you have a FMU, take it off and throw it as far as you can. Tuners hate working with them because they are so erratic.

The fuel should only be so you dont A'SLODE, but shouldnt stop you from making boost. Could be something simple, I know I was always used to a negative pressure manifold, and when it went positive I shot a couple of vacumn caps off. Or maybe your BOV (I know its called something else, but thats all I could think of) is stuck open and is just bleeding boost.

Once you get over 4500 it should feel like the hand of God (or a lesser diety depending on psi) is pushing you down the road, if not something is asleep at its post.

G'Luck
Rob