F-Body Europe

Well since I'm gonna be tearing down the entire front of the engine and replacing the opti, coil, wires, & wp. Where is the best place to get it from? The CSI is cheaper but requires a little more work.

My main question is the wiring of the pump. Pictures of it appear there is only 2 wires. Where the hell do they go because I've seen install pics w/ way more wires involved ie, relay, inline fuse, etc. Do I need all that? I just want the thing to turn on period. Maybe when I get better w/ wires I'll dive into having a toggle switch to cool it down after a few runs or something.

Thanks for any help. Don't ask why I'm switching either because I don't know myself. I believe a new wp cost more than a electric one. Last question. Is a timing chain required? Some people are switch to double rollers, why?
Since my block is new I just figured leave it as is for now.

Thunder hooked me up, but the absolute cheapest place ???.

As far as the wiring, it comes with 2wires and a 20a inline fuse, thats it. Mines hooked to a relay then to one of the power wires in the fuse box. Just grounded wherever convient. When I first had it wired, I just used a cheapy switch between pump and battery, and the ground, works either way, but with the relay it will turn on when you turn on the ignition, so its easier and more fool proof.

The cam gear that drives the waterpump can be removed, but I left mine in, didnt see a need to take it out. As far as the chain, I think most people swap because they can. The double roller will require clearancing of the timing cover thou. I was lazy, so I got the LT4 set. Your motor is brand new, so I cant see you needing one.

I think you'll like it, my temp stays 170-175 period, all the time. Course, it hasnt got 100deg + yet, but I think it will handle the summer just fine.

So you've finally seen the light huh ??

As for installation, you might wanna check out this link:

http://www.projecttransam.com/projects9.htm

I personally am gonna set it up with a relay connected to the alarm Turbo timer so evertime my car shuts down the turbo timer will let the pump and 1 fan turn for 2 extra minutes.

The Cloyes timing chains are cheap as they do not include that waterpump gear so you'll save a good $100 right there that i put towards the Meziere pump which ran me $125 shipped on Ebay
Since you don't have to worry about that waterpump gear anymore the dual Cloyes is an option, it's strong, dual chain, and cheap !
If you want to install it though you will have to think about a 95 opti swap as it can not be done on pre 95's if i recall correctly.
While your at it i'd get rid of that SD sensor and replace if with a MAF sensor, get yourself new wiring and a 94 PCM and you can finally program that PCM yourself instead of having eproms made every time you wish to change something.
PCM's are as cheap as $50, an used MAF will run you $100 ($250 for aftermarket G2 version), and expect about $50 worth of wiring (Opti wiring harness, Maf wiring harness, etc.)

Good luck,

Sergio

As for the dual chain clearance, most people don't have that problem with a 95 timingcover, while others do and they grind it a bit and are done in 5 mins.

I personally can't see the reason for spending about $100 more for a single chain setup, especially when the difference almost pays for the pump.


Sergio

Thanks Rob and Serg. Not gonna pull the chain off too new and it's a heavy duty unit. Waste of money IMO there w/ that. The wiring is not my strong suit and I've looked up the install page before putting this out there. Guess I'll just figure it out once all the parts arrive.

Serg I like my SD just not overseas! I could burn my own chips for less just haven't got that pressed to do it. So what's the status on your ride? Still waiting on parts or what?

I'll throw some pics (wont be real telling, but you can get a idea of it. If you wanted to do the chain (even though you said you didnt ) I know someone with a kit, and 95 timing cover they arent using.

Well, if you need ANY wiring help then i'm your man as i'm the Wiring Geek if i may say so

The engine is fine and and I will start disassembling that Lt-1 this easter weekend and see what's exactly there and what not.
I'll start by tagging the wiring harness and connectors and take them off, then followed by removal of the EGR system and the Air pump crap.
This should clean up that block a bit.
Then the tranny will be removed so i can work on that bad boy seperately and make the engine block a LOT more nimble.
Next are the plug wires and factory exhaust manifolds.

This should make the engine block a bit more 'bare' and once that optispark, waterpump and TB are off i'll wait untill i have the other stuff.

I'll be calling summit and ThunderRacing this weekend or next week to place the final orders for the remaining stuff that i need (gaskets, fluids, timing chain, wires, plugs, etc.)
When i get my heads and intake the ones on the engine will be removed and replaced.

I've 'Jack' painted my MAF (red) and PCM (black) as the Aluminum was ugly.
I'll do the same with the valve covers as i'm having a TERRIBLE time finding aftermarket ones that have centerbolts, look good, clear 1.6 Rr's and don't break the bank at the same time !

Probably polish the Waterpump and clearcoat it, might even do the same for the Alt.


Sergio

the meizer is already painted and clearcoated BTW

Well i was refering to the waterpump housing itself, i'm gonna leave the Meziere just like it is

I'll make pictures of the process and keep you folks posted.


Sergio

So you dudes run this electric WP fulltime on a daily driver? no concerns? I guess you free up serious HP in the higher RPMs hummmm something to consider.....maybe in conjunction with an Evans cooling setup... and then a smaller pulley....hummmmm

They are certified for 3400 hours of running, so before i even reach HALF of that i'll be retired and looking for vintage Camaro bodyparts to keep my ride from falling apart


Sergio

Do they run at a constant rpm or can they be set up to vary in speed with engine rpms? Just curious. I always thought they were a drag only type of thing. Gotta love advances in technology.

going evans? You dont go all the way do you?

my wp is certified for 2500 hours, thats alot of driving. As far as parasitic loss, I have a dyno sheet showing a 10rwhp gain with electric pump

Evans is something that intrigues me when I read about it. I may, in the future go that route. First I gotta find this stoopid coolant leak that only leaks every other day or so. I don't want to have to replace my griffin. I guess I could take it out and braze it but what a PITA!!

Rambling sorry.

The pump runs at the same rpm all the time providing about 35 gallon/hr, so it even does so at idle !
The stock waterpump pushes out 25 gallon/hr at about 6000 rpm but much less at idle.
So that is a definate improvement over stock


Sergio

Well Serg answer me this. Why is it some people have higher temps on the highway and lower temps at stop and go traffic w/ the meizer? Even if the stocker runs 25 @ 6K no complains of cooling problems. Most run the 160 stat along w/ a fan switch to cure their stop-n-go and a program w/ no problem. But for the Meiz you don't need a pro since it's running the same speed all the time. Or do you?
I know folks that are debating this right now on the main board you may wanna look at it.

Another thing to consider is you'll know when you stk pump goes instantly esp if the belt breaks. The elec nothing unless you've rigged some type of relay and led to indicate failure. But if you don't you could ruin your heads easy w/out even knowing you elec wp failed. Sure it costs less than a stk unit (at least thats the rumor) I've seen then for the same price New units no rebuilt units.

Rob you can chime in too..............

Well, i haven't been following the discussions on the mainboard and frankly i'm not gonna worry about it as there is always a group of protestors for any mod on that board.
Just look at the discussions about:

- 52mm vs 58mm
- Shortie headers vs long tube
- EGR removal controversy
- MAF "area 51" style theories
- ARP header bolts vs stage8 header bolts

etc etc

I have no explanation for the problem described above but i do know that the oem waterpump goes badon nearly all Lt-1's before 80k's and while replacing it the Meziere should be considered.
I personally cannot see how those problems can be caused.
Do keep in mind that you always see people on boards that have questions (like myself) or have problems !
Those who are out cruisin' and have NO problems at all have nothing to complain about and won't do so either, so you will find negativism about ANY product on boards.

Don't worry about it Jon, just like Rob Bass said:
Ain't nothing to it, but to do it !


Sergio

Well I'm gonna go for it once the weep hole gives me a sign. Till then it's fine the way it is. I don't need the extra 10 hapees to stomp your @$$!!! J/K Serg...

You'll know if the wp goes out, the temp gauge sensor gets its feed off the drivers side head, and that baby will fly up like a rocket! I had fuse go out on my first (yes this is my second, the 1st was faulty or screwed up by me) the sensor at the wp told me all was okay, but the temp gauge was tickling 220. Other than that /knock on wood/ my temp has never went above 185 according to scanner, and the needle barely moves at all.

To be fair, my stocker worked pretty damn good also, but the less stuff piggy backing on the cam seemed like a good thing to me.