F-Body Europe


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 Post subject: FLP HEADERS
PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2003 3:59 pm 
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Location: Friedberg, Germany
I JUST GOT SOME REALLY BAD NEWS FROM THE OPEL DEALERSHIP IN GIESSEN. THEY TOLD ME IT WOULD BE UP TO 2000 EURO TO INSTALL MY FLP HEADERS ON MY CAR. HOLY "He said POOP"!!!!! DOES ANYONE KNOW OF A PLACE THAT CAN DO THIS FOR LESS???? OR CAN ANYONE DO IT FOR ME? PLEASE LET ME KNOW. I ALSO HAVE TO HAVE THE G2 FRONT A-ARMS INSTALLED AND THE WHEEL BALANCED AFTER THAT.

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FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2003 5:22 pm 
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2000€? Are they nuts? I know LS1 motor area is pretty tight, but a price like that would mean they wanted to pull the motor or something ...

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Garry Glendown * '99 Firehawk Convertible

"Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you."
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 Post subject: Anywhere???
PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2003 5:45 pm 
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Is there any place in Germany that is like ThunderRacing, LGMotorsports, SummitRacing or something like that, that could work on my car. Is there a place that does custom work on GM motors?

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FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Tue Aug 05, 2003 5:53 pm 
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Hm ... guess you could ask Red from K-Town ... don't have his email handy right now ... if you were To come down to Bitburg, you could probably have a talk with him ...

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Garry Glendown * '99 Firehawk Convertible

"Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you."
"Speed doesn't kill - suddenly becoming stationary on the other hand ..."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2003 6:51 am 
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Please tell me that was a really dumb joke... That is probably the most outrageous thing I have ever heard. John and George helped me install mine at the craft shop. Do they have to be welded, or can they be bolted on? We were able to just bolt mine on, but later I decided to have them welded. The only part that isn't welded is where the exhaust meets the y-pipe..

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 Post subject: No joke
PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2003 8:24 am 
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This is NO joke. They are bolt on. But I guess they could be welded. Anywasy, I need to find somewhere else to do this, or have someone do it for me. I would gladly pay, but NOT 2000 EUROs... no way.

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FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Aug 06, 2003 1:14 pm 
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Are there any other fbodyeurope members near you? With 2 or 3 people, you could easily do this in a few hours max.. Is there an exhaust shop near you? Check around, I'm sure they wouldn't charge that much. That is called see how deep the American's pockets are, and it PISSES ME OFF. Why the hell would it cost that much to install some freakin' headers? :rant: :evil: :evil: :evil:

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 Post subject: welding
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2003 4:57 pm 
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SHOULD I have the headers WELDED on or BOLTED on? What are the pros and cons?

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FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2003 5:37 pm 
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Welding them to the block??? Never heard of that ... !?

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Garry Glendown * '99 Firehawk Convertible

"Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you."
"Speed doesn't kill - suddenly becoming stationary on the other hand ..."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2003 7:06 pm 
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Another hint - check with a local ATU place - they usually make fixed prices for the work they do ... if you're lucky, they won't know the LS1 and quote you a price they would expect for a "regular" V6/V8 ...

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Garry Glendown * '99 Firehawk Convertible

"Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you."
"Speed doesn't kill - suddenly becoming stationary on the other hand ..."


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2003 7:20 pm 
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Location: Höheischweiler, SüdWestPfalz
Find an A.T.U. Service and ask them what they would charge...

if it is just the bolt on situation, and you bring them all the parts
(including the gaskets! they won't have them)

they have a fix price for the workhour... like if it would be 50€, so if he needs 4 hours it will be 200.-

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2003 7:40 pm 
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NOT to the block.. I don't even know if that's possible.. Anyway, I'm speaking of where the headers meet the cats and y-pipe. :)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 07, 2003 7:56 pm 
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Garry you beat me to that... that is what happens when I do not pay attention and walk away from the computer... :wink:

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2003 8:02 am 
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Location: Heidelberg, Germany
Call Mr. BNeilmeier at 09621-678138. He has installed many headers, cam and heads on LS-1's. He should give you a good price.


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 Post subject: cost
PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2003 12:57 pm 
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well so far the second best price is 800 EURO... ill keep looking... :)

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FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Aug 08, 2003 6:49 pm 
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FIND SOMEONE TO HELP YOU DO IT. IT IS NOT HARD, AND DOESN'T COST MORE THAN BAY FEES. :)

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 Post subject: fumes
PostPosted: Wed Aug 13, 2003 5:15 pm 
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well the headers are on and so are the front A-Arms... the mechanic had a heck of a time installing the A-Arms but it is done now.... I do have one question.... IS IT NORMAL TO SMELL FUMES AFTER THE HEADERS ARE INSTALLED? Its not a strong smell... just a little..... maybe it will go away? I only drove it about 10miles to my house.. .so I dont know if this is a permanent thing.... I hope it is just some loose stuff about.... what do you guys think? Otherwise they look good and sound great.... a little low.... so I have to watch out for bumps and speedbumps..... LOL :)

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FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Aug 14, 2003 12:52 am 
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the headers have (or should have) a oil film on them, that and your mechanics dirty hands. It will burn off in a few miles. As far a low, yup there low, also look at what is actually making contact when you do bottom out. I wouldnt want to beat on my collecters to much, at best you'll rub the coating off, at worst you'll screw up your cylinder heads if you hit a speed bump to aggresive and the headers try to escape from its mounting bolts.

The bolts are gonna work lose after a couple of heat cycles (unless you have locks on 'em) so give 'em a tightening after a few heat cycles.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Sun Sep 14, 2003 4:56 am 
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RobH wrote:
the headers have (or should have) a oil film on them, that and your mechanics dirty hands. It will burn off in a few miles. As far a low, yup there low, also look at what is actually making contact when you do bottom out. I wouldnt want to beat on my collecters to much, at best you'll rub the coating off, at worst you'll screw up your cylinder heads if you hit a speed bump to aggresive and the headers try to escape from its mounting bolts.

The bolts are gonna work lose after a couple of heat cycles (unless you have locks on 'em) so give 'em a tightening after a few heat cycles.


Right on the money. The headers will stink for a while, maybe a week depending on how much you drive it, until any oily junk gets burned off. Like RobH said, make sure you go back in and tighten the header bolts... check them even if you do have locking ones, as you never know.

I'm getting ready to install Pacesetter LT's and their new y-pipe on my car as soon as the y-pipe arrives and am looking forward to tackling that job. :) Glad you like the FLPs!

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 Post subject: Leak
PostPosted: Sat Oct 11, 2003 6:12 pm 
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My CATS are removable on the FLP Headers I have and I swear that I have an exhaust leak due to this. Is there a way to correct this? Also, when my car is cold, the exhaust pipes seem to rattle a lot. Is this normal? It seems to go away once the car is warmed up.

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FLP Headers; Borla Cat Back; Z06 Wheels; NITTO Tires; KB SFC; Strut Brace; Hawk Pads; GStop Rotors; C5 Calipers; G2: Drive Shaft Loop, Rear End Girdle, A-Arms, Sway Bar, Pan Hard Bar, Lower Control Arms, Torque Arm; Eibach Springs; Bilstein Shocks & more.


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