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LuS1fer
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Post subject: LS1 Nitrous Systems. Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 3:51 pm |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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I'm looking for an LS1 nitrous system and have concluded that it's either the TNT system with the pre-plumbed power ring or the Venom 1000 which looks, to all intents and purposes, to be the more sophisticated and failsafe system, especially as I don't want to mess around with any other mods like uprated fuel pumps.
I know Hawk had the Venom which he took off but anyone know anything about these systems?
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Hawk
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 4:25 pm |
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 4:25 pm Posts: 4288 Location: Vilseck
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I still have one installed and the one I am tryiny to sell is brand new. Mine still works great after 2 years. I will make you a great deal on the price of the brand new system with stickers. Do your home work but I feel the Venom system is the best for the LS1. Because of the plastic intakes and the safty features.
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LuS1fer
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Post subject: Posted: Wed Oct 15, 2003 8:06 pm |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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Several questions. What's in the kit. How easy is it to fit and although I'm not looking to buy until next month, what's the best price. I think they go for under 700 dollars new anyway?
http://www.aeiperformance.com/venom_nitrous.htm
I also need to check with my insurance company what their view is on self-fit as opposed to professional fit (where the actual difference is just getting fleeced).
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Hawk
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2003 7:40 am |
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 4:25 pm Posts: 4288 Location: Vilseck
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I can beat that price by $150. I installed mine and it works fine it can be hid easily for the stealth look bottle is in the spare tire compartment and I ran the lines under the door jams.
red- battery power
green- pos injector wire
orange- neg injectors 8 each
yellow - Throttle position sensor
white- O2 sensor
black- ground
Pretty simply I used a voltmeter with the directions and installed it in 4 hrs. This is a complete brand new kit never installed. I ordered for another guy and he ended up not taking it. So I am willing to take some loss.
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LuS1fer
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2003 7:52 am |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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I'm definitely interested but have a few more questions.
Is there any cutting of wires and can the car be easily restored to stock if I sell it later? Particularly where and how do you locate the NOS nozzles. I think TNT's power ring might offer a better bolt in/bolt out set-up but I might be able to get that power ring separately and hook it in.
(Edit: No chance of this as the "conversion" kit is $399!!!!!)
You did it in 4 hours but I don't even know how to use a voltmeter so I might take a little longer. Is there anything complicated in there?
Is it the same system as that shown above?
Do you use any other additions like bottle openers, bottle warmers, window switches or is this just a WOT system?
The TNT system is a "wet" system as opposed to this which is a "dry" system. What's the difference?
If you think you have the answer to any question I ought to be asking, please feel free to chip in! LOL.
Why have you got TWO?
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RobH
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2003 11:26 am |
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Senior Member |
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Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 2:48 am Posts: 399 Location: Lawton, Ok
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install manual
http://www.venom-performance.com/nf/pdf/1000%20install/vcn-1000%20install%20manual.pdf
A dry shot is fine for 100hp and lower, much higher and you want to look into a wet kit. The "smart" people say the cutoff is more along the lines of 150-175hp, but I stay on the side of caution.
A dry setup, you trick your regulator into providing much more fuel pressure. So you go from 35-40psi normal load, to about 80-85psi on the gas. A inline fuel pump would be a safety item to consider. Another saftey item is read about your injectors. LT1 24#'s had a reputation of locking up under the extra pressure, so flowed 24#'s were recommended as well ie..SVO injectors.
The Window switch is a function of your ignition not the nitrous system. Get a MSD or Mallory window switch, or you can spend alittle more and invest in the newer DIS systems from MSD. All nitrous is a WOT thing. Thats the only time you want it to come on if you like your motor.
I dont know of a bottle heater on the venom kit, but you could fab up a heating pad to maintain the line pressure.
I've never been around the venom stuff, but it does sound interesting
_________________ http://www.neverliftchassis.com
http://www.racelens.com
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Hawk
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2003 4:34 pm |
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 4:25 pm Posts: 4288 Location: Vilseck
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It has the air fuel inticators green rich red is lean you will start with the smallest jet if you see constant green on the indicator while spraying you can safely step up a jet. kit comes with 50,75,100,125 bigger ones can be orderd or made  Once this system goes lean it deactivates and you have to step down a jet. Kewl system and if you wanna go bigger? I installed #36 lph injectors and have sprayed 150 plus for the hit effect. Keep in mind HP # only tell part of the story NITROUS increases torque BIG TIME.
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LuS1fer
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Post subject: Posted: Thu Oct 16, 2003 4:44 pm |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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I'm more concerned with what I have to drill to fit the jets. can I get MAF ends and use those?
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RobH
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2003 2:08 am |
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Joined: Wed Apr 23, 2003 2:48 am Posts: 399 Location: Lawton, Ok
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Hawk
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2003 4:24 am |
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 4:25 pm Posts: 4288 Location: Vilseck
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Drill a small hole in your air lid and that it 2 minutes you should not drill the MAF because the Nitrous will freeze it.
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LuS1fer
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2003 7:50 am |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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Ah....I can't do that as I have a K&N FIPK and so I don't have a lid or anywhere I could drill (other than the back of the filter and it would just leak out then LOL). I suggested the MAF end because TNT's kit has a pre-plumbed MAF end that you just bolt on.
How does that not freeze?
http://www.ls1motorsports.com/ls1cfuel.asp
I'll have to have a read of that install manual above.
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Hawk
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Oct 17, 2003 7:59 am |
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 4:25 pm Posts: 4288 Location: Vilseck
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Wet systems put Mitrous and fuel in between the TB and MAF Dry systems work better between filter and MAF. It does not leak out it is injected into the air flow stream because the boost happens in the compustion chamber as soon as it gets 500 degrees it breaks down and releases the O2 giving you the hit.
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Fatboy
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Post subject: Posted: Sun Oct 19, 2003 5:04 pm |
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Joined: Mon Mar 31, 2003 4:32 pm Posts: 17 Location: Milton Keynes, UK
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Go with the wet kit Lusifer, the beauty of it is that the pcm nevers knows its there. I've ordered an SLP smooth bellows to fit the nozzle to as its fimer than the oem part.
You WILL need a bottle warmer if you're gonna use it in the UK. At Santa Pod in August my bottle still didn't get above 800psi even in that heat - waste of gas!.
_________________ 99 Z28 A4, had a few things changed.
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Hawk
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 5:50 am |
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 4:25 pm Posts: 4288 Location: Vilseck
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The reason I went dry is our intakes are not designed for fuel just air plastic and raw fuel puddles in them at lower RPM's. Which would act like a grenade under your hood.
Just gather as much knowledge as you can before you spray.
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LuS1fer
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Post subject: Posted: Mon Oct 20, 2003 11:55 am |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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For the right price, I'm tempted to start with the dry. Better that than go with the very expensive wet and get it wrong or blow the engine apart. I think the dry will be my "Nitrous for Pre-Schoolers" kit.
How difficult can it be, he said foolishly.
OK Hawk, have you got a cost for P&P to Caerphilly in the UK? Postcode is CF83.
Still gotta find someone to fill the bottle round here first though.
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Hawk
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 6:28 am |
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 4:25 pm Posts: 4288 Location: Vilseck
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I can check it out for shipping. How I fill my own bottles in the garage it is pretty easy.
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JackZ28
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 7:48 am |
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Joined: Mon May 28, 2001 6:03 pm Posts: 8686 Location: Houston, TX
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Just order this:
LSX Intake Manifold
Made from space-age polymer plastic, the new FASTâ„¢ LSX multi-piece component intake manifold shows a 20 horsepower increase on the General Motors LS1 engine and 15 horsepower on the Corvette LS6 engine, with no loss of drivability or low rpm torque. Best of all, the FASTâ„¢ space-age plastic polymer intake is 30 percent stronger than the stock polymer unit. Unlike aftermarket aluminum intakes, the FASTâ„¢ polymer intake avoids becoming a power robbing heat sink.
The LSX comes with integrated nitrous oxide injector ports and the ability to accept a larger than the stock (75mm) throttle body for increased fuel flow. In addition, the LSX manifold has the capability to be ported and is easily accessible as a result of the multi-piece design. Optional nitrous burst panels may be added for an additional charge (pricing will be available soon.) 78mm and 90mm Throttle Bodies will be available soon from FAST. Click here to read more in this article from Popular Hot Rodding.
_________________
 http://www.myspace.com/jackster31b
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Hawk
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 7:50 am |
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Joined: Tue Jun 26, 2001 4:25 pm Posts: 4288 Location: Vilseck
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$$$$ But I read the artical on it in GM high tech
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LuS1fer
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Post subject: Posted: Tue Oct 21, 2003 8:00 am |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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But that manifold costs too much. Is it so much better than the LS6?
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LuS1fer
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Post subject: Posted: Fri Oct 24, 2003 3:13 pm |
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Joined: Wed Jan 02, 2002 11:54 am Posts: 866 Location: Cardiff, South Wales, UK
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Hey Hawk, I'm going to have to pass at the moment for two reasons.
Firstly, the nearest Nitrous supplier is 50 miles away so it's a 100 mile round trip for "10 passes worth" plus a toll bridge fee of £5. I think that's about £15 a mile which makes UK petrol look reasonable.
Secondly, I've read the install manual and I'm not that keen on splicing into 10 critical wires. Had there been some bespoke piggyback connectors, I'd be happy but if I install it myself, my insurers won't be happy and me and electrics don't mix (I'm the type who ends up soldering his hand to the window).
Getting it installed is problematic as the only professional installers want to sell you their own systems.
I'll get back to you if I can find a more loacl supplier and an installer.
Thanks for all your advice though.
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