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 Post subject: Brakes bleeding question
PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2004 6:34 pm 
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Location: Chamarandes, FRANCE
I've got my car for 4 years now and want to bleed my brakes. I did it on my previous car but for the Camaro, my Chilton says :

Quote:
Before bleeding the ABS brake system, the front and rear displacement cylinder pistons must be returned to the topmost position. This requires the use of a Tech 1 scan tool to perform the rehoming procedure


I don't have the scan tool; I wonder if I can have the bleeding made by a local tech, because I'm not really sure they have the scan tool.

If the rehoming procedure is not obligatory, I prefer to do it by myself.

What do you think? Who has made a brakes bleeding on a 4th gen and can give me some advice?

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PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2004 6:46 pm 
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Get some Earl's solo bleeders. They make the job so much easier. If you don't have them, you will need someone to help you. You have to push the brakes until the fluid comes out in a steady stream. No air bubbles! ;)

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Jul 22, 2004 7:49 pm 
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Joined: Sat Oct 13, 2001 4:53 pm
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Location: Erlangen <=> Coburg
I just put in some stainless steel braided brake lines and of course I had to bleed the brakes, too. I did this already two times and it´s a major PITA if you do it with the old fashioned hose-in-a-bottle-method and also lots of fluid gets wasted (that´s perhaps also because I did it, but, ok.)
Now i did it with a Mityvac Vacuum Pump, and that´s much easier, "pull" the fluid through the lines, till you see no bubbles anymore and it runs clear, just have somebody to refill the brake reservoir, that´s it.
You have to bleed the ABS modulator, too, it has two connectors (at least on the 3.4), but i never used any kind of scan tool, but i also have a different car. The Chilton manual says something about priming the ABS system (starting the engine, let it run for 10secs, hit the brakes or something like that) and then bleed it, but i don´t remember right now.


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2004 5:37 am 
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Location: Mehlingen,Rhineland Pfalz, Deutschland
Chris
The Abs Modulator is an option al bleed procedure. But it should only be done with a tech 1 or tech 2 scan tool. the purpose is to operate the valves to clear trapped air out of the abs modulator.

But if you didn't get any air there , then it needs no bleeding.

@99- that procedure is not mandatory unless you got air in the abs modulator, or ran the mastercylinder dry , changed a line between the MC and the abs mod.

plus make sure you haven't had a Abs event prior to bleeding the the system.
If you are sticking with Dot 3 fluid use Ford Dot 3. If you are gonna switch to Dot 4 use Ate Super Blue or 200. Both are top notch and better than the Gm stuff, but the Ate is superior.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2004 7:29 am 
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Thanks Roy! In all manuals it sounds like the ABS has to be part of every bleeding procedure (and as far as i remember they really mention no scantool). But at least i could get the old brake fluid caught in it out.

The guy that supplies me with brake parts (part of raybestos) told the that ate super blue is in fact superior to the normal stuff, can take higher temps, but he would not recommend to use it in older brake systems because they found out in several tests that due to all the additives in it, it´s pretty aggressive and will corrode old seals and lines.
What´s your opinion on this?


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2004 5:30 pm 
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Chris
Sounds like wives tales to me . If there is a problem with your brakesystem , it will rear its ugly head regardless of going to ATE.

Word of warning Stay away from DOT 5 Silicone base brake fluid. It is totally incompatible with with Dot 3 or 4. you may get the undesired results you were talking about.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Jul 23, 2004 10:02 pm 
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Thanx guys, I'll go with the old-fashioned way, with a little help from my father to push the pedal :wink:

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99 V6 Camaro coupe
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The more you mod it, the less you drive it...


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