F-Body Europe

So who is going to help me install an LPE cam?

I'm going to be up front and let you all know that I have hardly any mechanical know how, but I learn fast.

Need someone to help me work through the cam install.

I will be moving to the Schweinfurt area in the next month.

I don't have the cam yet but should have it come winter.

I plan on running that same cam here soon I think because it will be nice with me procharger. On that note I have never done a cam install myself but there are plenty of guys who have. You could always go to http://www.ls1howto.com for all the info you need on doing a cam swap. If I was closer I would help so we could both learn. Crash course on your car.

Actually LPE has another cam that they suggest for FI. The GT2-3 is supposed to be an N/A cam.

I'll help you but I won' be back until mid november. If you can't wait that long contact Bruce. He helped me install mine when I was an LS1 newbie. He is moving up to Bamberg at the beginning of October.

Oh I left some important info out about Bruce. Just make sure you start in the morning and work during the day. He wussed out on me at about 4 a.m. I had to fix the valves he didn't adjust correctly with him snoring in a chair.

Umm, yeah, I am not a wrencher at all, so this is going to be a slow 'hold my hand' process.

Not a problem. Hardest part is getting the balancer off. You might want to think about an underdrive pulley since we will already have it off.

If you do a search a lot of people actually run the GT2-3 with boost and have great results. I have not decided on anything abosolute yet though.

Well I am looking forward to it. Hoping for 360/360 with a dyno tune and 345-350 without.

I've heard bad things about the UD draining your battery.

I know some people say it is fine but others say they can clearly see it affecting the car at night with lights on and radio on.

Those are the guys with larger than average radios.

When my car was relatively stock with an underdrive pulley I did see a dip in charging but it was no big deal. I really only saw it with the radio, heater, and headlights on. I now have an ATI one but my car idles at 900rpm so it’s no problem either.

I think ASP sells the underdrive pulley with an overdriven alternator pulley. It is cheaper than the single SLP crank pulley and I have heard good things about it. I know it will not work if you ever decided to install a double roller timing chain. You would have to get the end turned down some but any good machine shop could do it.

sure I could help you it is pretty straight foward. One question what are You doing about a tune? UD pullies are a good idea if you drive on the a-bahn like me. I have destroyed 2 power steering pumps and 3 altenators they give up to the ghost pretty quick around 7000 RPM.

Tune is going to be done by RWTD.

I've also asked Ligenfelter and a few people who are currently running the cam and they say you can run it without a tune for a while, pretty mild.

Val firechicken has a TR224 for sale with CC918 springs and titanium retainers for cheap.

This kit comes with the LS6 springs, supposedly that is all you need....

Alright, cam selection has changed.

I am now deciding between a custom cam that will be slightly more aggressive than the GT 2-3 Cam (something that takes advantage of my exhaust work).

Cost of this custom cam will be $450 (+ $200 for a good valvetrain upgrade), or I can get some Stage III P&P'd heads with valvetrain upgrades for $1299 shipped.

Decisions, decisions....

30-35 rwhp from a cam or 25-30 rwhp from some heads.

Only issue is that the heads will allow for some great gains once I do get a cam....

Help me out, what would you do?

Just do heads and cam at the same time. Match them up now and just make it easier in the long run. True you might have to wait a little because it will be more but you will be better off in the long run.

I would do the cam first and get a good computer tune. That made the biggest difference on my car. Do you have headers on the car yet?